How do you decide what area is best to paddle out in?

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

How do you decide what area is best to paddle out in?

Postby trifish » Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:16 pm

Im sure this has prob been asked a few times, but I wasnt able to find anything on it. What are you looking for when you on the beach before heading into the water. It seems to be that the common sense would be to look for the most calm area to paddle out in? Is there something more to it? I have been surfing this past year off and on and i still have trouble getting out to the lineup without exhausting myself. Thanks
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Fri Aug 22, 2008 11:44 pm

Pop onto this thread... Introduce yourself


To answer your question (or at least to spout some random uninformed nonsense)...
Your route out back can be a critically important choice. Arguably more important than being able to duckdive well, because you can often get out back without needing to.

The easiest way out back is to ride a rip, if theres one available.
If not, then you need to be picking the spot between the peaks where the sets are lacking power and crumbling.

Also, timing is as important as position - work out the combination of lulls and sets and make sure you go at the beginning of a lull.

Finally, choice of break - some spots always involve a long difficult paddle, while other spots are almost always a dry hair paddle out. So match the conditions with the break.

But sometimes you just have to paddle

:lol:
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Postby isaluteyou » Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:40 am

yep things to look for are channels as you really can do a dry hair paddle. Unfortunatly not every break has channels.

Your next best bet is to use ripcurrents often found by piers or jetties. But there are other places they occur - Use the rip then paddle parrallel to shore to excape its grasp.

When desciding on where to paddle out try to aim yourself away from where it is breaking heaviest and be sure you not gonna paddle out in the way of other surfers if at all avoidable :wink:
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Postby pkbum » Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:59 am

in order to find the rip, look for the brown colorish water, those are channel you want to paddle with. if you don't use the rip, but you have the proper paddling and duck diving technique, then it is pretty easy to paddle out.

good luck
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Postby Thibb » Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:17 am

My own added question as the last one is pretty well answered: what exactly is the difference between a channel and a rip? From what I understand, they are pretty much the same thing: a deeper area where the waves are less likely to break and where the water from the beach is most likely to return to sea. No?
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Postby twerked » Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:30 am

well, a rip current happens because a lot of water is being dumped on the beach, and especially if there is a trough between the shore and a sandbar, it all builds up. eventually this water has to make its way back to the ocean, so a rip current will form. rips can occur anywhere at any time, just more likely on rougher days. the ease of paddling here is that the backwards flow of water to the ocean makes waves almost never break, and it's like riding a ski lift to the lineup. a channel, however, is usually just a deep spot between shallow points, like two sandbars, but most commonly found in reefs. the deep water in the channel between the reefs or bars means the waves usually can't break, or if they do, just barely...hope that helps
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Postby pkbum » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:26 am

yep it still break in the rip current but it is less likely to happen.
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Postby trifish » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:39 am

Thanks guys, great info! I guess I always had the impression to stay away from any rips instead of using them for my advantage. Yesterday I was out in 4-6foot strong choppy surf and was trying everything to make it out. i tried walking out, paddling through, duck diving but the breaks was coming in so fast I just kept getting washed back to land :( I will take you guys advice next time for sure. Thanks
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Postby Thibb » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:45 am

twerked wrote:well, a rip current happens because a lot of water is being dumped on the beach, and especially if there is a trough between the shore and a sandbar, it all builds up. eventually this water has to make its way back to the ocean, so a rip current will form. rips can occur anywhere at any time, just more likely on rougher days. the ease of paddling here is that the backwards flow of water to the ocean makes waves almost never break, and it's like riding a ski lift to the lineup. a channel, however, is usually just a deep spot between shallow points, like two sandbars, but most commonly found in reefs. the deep water in the channel between the reefs or bars means the waves usually can't break, or if they do, just barely...hope that helps


It helps. Thanks, that was one of the things I never really figured out.
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Postby LOLRuss » Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:41 am

trifish wrote:Thanks guys, great info! I guess I always had the impression to stay away from any rips instead of using them for my advantage. Yesterday I was out in 4-6foot strong choppy surf and was trying everything to make it out. i tried walking out, paddling through, duck diving but the breaks was coming in so fast I just kept getting washed back to land :( I will take you guys advice next time for sure. Thanks


If the swell period is short and there are no sets, it will be exhausting to get out. Thats just how it is. Once you get better at reading the ocean, you will notice that it breaks more in some places than others, even when there aren't good sets. Also as you paddle more you will get out faster and it will become much easier. The struggle to get out is just a part of paying your dues to the surf gods :)
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Postby esonscar » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:18 pm

Some of us have little choice about the paddle out.

This first paragraph describes my favorite break, but, well, have a read !

:lol:

http://www.beachwizard.com/beach.asp?co ... eachid=550

:shock:

Head down arse up and goooooooooo.


EDIT : Just noticed the 'photos at the bottom of that page, they show about 1ft to 2.5ft - a nice size and nice paddle out :-

Soo, can you imagine how far out 4ft to 6ft is - then imagine where the lineup for 7ft plus would be !!!!!

Timed it once, 55 minutes paddle out in the big stuff :shock:
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Postby Aloha » Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:07 am

Beach corners almost always have a rip along them. By corners I mean the ends of the bay, usually where there are rocks or a point. Stay close to the bays edge along the side and you'll be whisked out to sea quite quickly.
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