Surfing Waves

I've been surfing since February. I just started riding the line, although I do go straight for a bit often times as my popup is slow... sometimes the wave breaks on me as I don't turn in time. I make about 60% of my pop-ups, usually every one in the middle of a session when I am warmed up and not too tired. I started in the winter, so I got a lot of experience in choppy crappy sea and I've been working on my swimming so I'm pretty confident out there. I just started getting waves in the green well before they break.

But anyway, with any luck it will be my first time in overhead surf, and it will be clean. The other day we had standouts just about head high and far from being scared... I loved it. I made a couple late drops that were the most fun I've ever had.

I'm definitely going out unless its like double overhead, but I don't think it will get there (and be clean at the same time). I'm on an 11' board, so getting caught inside is not much fun but I'm fully prepared to dump the board and dive if its big enough. Hopefully it will be clean and in sets and it won't be an issue. I think I'm in good enough shape to handle getting held down.

So... any tips? Anything I need to do differently than chest/head high surf? Pointers?

LOLRuss wrote: I'm on an 11' board, so getting caught inside is not much fun but I'm fully prepared to dump the board and dive if its big enough.

Well you can forget that. A proper hurricane swell will snap your leash and then throw you over the falls too. Dont go thinking that because you've made it okay so far that you'll be allright. A long period powerful swell is a completely different scenario. A leash snapping, board destroying, body breaking type scenario.

Just to make this clear... you will not be able to swim underneath a hurricane swell and drag your board behind you.
(If you come back on here and say that you did, then I'll just tell you that it wasnt a proper hurricane swell)

But, moving on....
You'll need to paddle a whole lot earlier and whole lot quicker. The trick is to be able to read whats going to happen while the swell is still way off on the horizon. The choice being: do nothing, paddle for it, paddle out of its way. Make sure you make the right choice.

Hmmm... that puts things into perspective, doesn't it? I didn't really think about leash snapping or board breakage. Maybe I'm not up to this?

BTW, I didn't mean to swim with the board behind me but... if you get caught inside and have six feet of white water coming at you, or worse its going to break right on you... best to dive as deep as possible, yeah? But I get what you're saying: have the skills to avoid that situation or don't go out.

My guess is that longboarders don't do very well in such swells. Not that I have ever ridden a longboard, but all the guys on longboards that I see at my break pretty much disappear once it's over 5-6 foot. I have gone out in 6 foot swells on a minimal and I loved every second of it, got some great rides and adrenaline rushes.

Someone more experienced that me should really be answering this, but my rule is simple. If it dumps and closes out and it is over 4 foot, I stay in.

try to surf during the morning when the wind are low and the sets are clean. much more easier to paddle out than the close out over head afternoon onshore bullshit1. bailing the board doesn't work that well when it is overhead, so just a tip.

good luck and don't drown.

LOLRuss wrote:Maybe I'm not up to this?

Dunno, but you gotta give it a go

Pick the right moment, pick the right route, paddle hard.
Then pick the right wave, paddle harder.

You'll be fine.

i hope we get some good swell this year. havn't surfed too much in 2008 so want to catch up a bit. roll on big waves

Me thinks your gonna have a great time. Here is your weather forecast. Can you say "Victory at sea"? It will be a fun time getting your board from your car to the beach then a couple of miles walking north on the beach because I can only imagine what the drift is like.

"Today: Showers likely and possibly a thunderstorm, then showers and thunderstorms after 8am. High near 84. Breezy, with a northeast wind between 17 and 22 mph, with gusts as high as 33 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%."

drowningbitbybit wrote: A long period powerful swell is a completely different scenario. A leash snapping, board destroying, body breaking type scenario

just caught my attention here with the distinction and wonder could you clarify....
... been out in pretty big waves a few times before (solid 6-7ft.. and at that i have a tendencie to play down wave size)... didn't do all that great in it... had a hard time getting on the wave at the right time... normally too early (and a little less often but often enough) too late, which was fun. caught a couple of good waves in each session but thats it. other guys out there catching pretty much everything they went for.

was very rippy and took a lot of work to stay in position but i'm pretty strong out there so not a real problem.. got launched off the lip on one of the bigger ones... managed not to nose dive (but in hindsight i'd probably have been better off) landed belly first on my board which knocked the wind out of me then held down for longer than i've ever been held down before, only to come back up to take the rest of the set on the head.

everywhere else was flat that day (this place is a bit of a magic swell magnet)... basically what i'm wondering is this the kind of swell you're referring to or can it get heavier (ignoring hollow spitting reefs etc.)? pretty sure this place only fires like that on a long period swell.

Thibb wrote:My guess is that longboarders don't do very well in such swells.

Answer is it depends!

Boards for realy big waves tend to be big, & it depensd on the wave shape as it breaks too.

If its big but fat and slow the 11footer if he can get out may be fine, I've been out in near DOH on my 9footer and it was pretty cruisy because of the break.

Probably conditions you dont want to get things wrong though and it'll take a lot getting out and a lot getting in, and plenty to even catch a big(er) wave, so probably advise against the OP going out.

Guys, this is the report: http://magicseaweed.com/Flagler-Pier-Surf-Report/347/

Doesn't look like its gonna clean up for a while, and it will not be too big when it does.

LOLRuss wrote:Guys, this is the report: http://magicseaweed.com/Flagler-Pier-Surf-Report/347/

Doesn't look like its gonna clean up for a while, and it will not be too big when it does.

Dude.............look at Monday and Tuesday. Call up work and be sick.

No need. I work when I want, where I want

I took a 9' gun out into 10 to 12 foot faces - no chance to get outside other than dive deep and swim it, leash trying to tear my leg off and a tombstone of yellow following me like a demented sea creature !

Hell of a surf once out though

The damned storm parked over us and we've been sitting in the eye for 2 days. Just now passing us. Unsurfable as yet.

your one lucky dude! id do jus about anything to get some 7 foot waves with a 5 foot average here! its ANKLEA EVERY SINGLE day inless a swell comes in.but i paddled out during 7 ft average and got barreled n basically P W N E D but came away fine

5 ft swell comin through the gulf here! for u florida kids itll be alright!
hurricane shmurricane!

I haven't been out yet, its been terminal choppy mess. Am waiting for it to clean up.

screw waiting
i went out in 50 mph winds and 8 footers lol
only injury is a almost pulled my leg outta the socket from wipeout n cutting feet on rocky bottom!
A W E S O M E