Surfing Waves

Hey guys,

Been reading this forum for a long time but just recently decided to register.
I live on the Cal central coast and just bought a 9' longboard to learn on.

I've been surfing for about a week now and have stood up, only in the whitewater. I'm still learning to read the waves...and when I do get a good wave the front of my board dips down and I eat it. I try stand more on the back of the board but I still can't keep the nose of the board up. Any suggestions for this?

Also...always wondering if it was easier paddling out with a shortboard or a longboard.. I noticed I got really tired. A little out of shape...but I plan on going at least 2 times a week, so that should take care of itself.

Anyways...great site and have learned a lot. Thanks!

try turning along the wave so the nose of the board isn't digging straight into the water, the same when paddling into waves or standing up on them.

as for paddling out on a shortboard or a longboard, they both have advantages. the shortboard being easyer to get past waves but the longboard for the paddling speed.

Sillysausage wrote:the shortboard being easyer to get past waves but the longboard for the paddling speed.

Not sure I quite understood what that meant about getting past waves?

I think he means with a shorty you can duck under the waves.. easier to get through on your way out. Longboards take a little more fandangling to get through the breaking waves/whitewaters..

RWhit, where in Central Coast?

I just paddled out at Pismo Beach last weekend.. Im up there about once a month (sometimes 2 months). I grew up in Central Coast CA.. Welcome to posting on the forum too.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

In response to you Dave, I live in Atascadero (north county SLO) and I usually surf at A-Beach (Morro Bay) or Studio (Cayucos).

Oh, and here is the board I bought for $220. 9' shaped from a guy in Pismo.

As Sillysausage pointed out. Do not paddle straight with the wave. Angle your self to the wave.

It does not have to be a lot of angle but is necessary to angel when catching a wave or you will as you said "the nose dips down" known as pearling. If you are angling and still pearling.... As your paddling really sink your hips into the board and arch your back as the wave is catching you. That will help move your center of gravity back If your still pearling move back inch by inch until your catching waves. Your ideal position when you get it right is to be positioned on your board so if you move a inch to far forward you pearl. It is a fine balance.

Before you stand on a longboard make sure you are gliding along the wave then pop up.

justloafing wrote:
Before you stand on a longboard make sure you are gliding along the wave then pop up.

Thanks for the advice.

Yeah...I start gliding and then when I stand up I'm usually in the whitewater already. When I try standing up earlier that's when I pearl and have some sweet wipe outs, lol. Come to think of it...I don't think I was angling the board enough. I'll try that tomorrow when I go out.

Also...does anyone ever have problems with their leash? I think mine's too long and it always gets caught up and wrapped around my leg. I was so frustrated I almost took it off. Definitely need to get a shorter one.

RWhit wrote:Oh, and here is the board I bought for $220. 9' shaped from a guy in Pismo.

Great looking board to start with.

Yeah I was a little confused. Some older guys said that it's best to learn on a longboard. Then on some sites they say it's best to start on a funboard. So I was browsing around on craigslist and found this for $250...offered $220 cash and it was a done deal. So far I like it...but I might get a funboard if I can find one for cheap....plus it'll be nice to have a second anyways.

RWhit wrote:Also...does anyone ever have problems with their leash? I think mine's too long and it always gets caught up and wrapped around my leg. I was so frustrated I almost took it off. Definitely need to get a shorter one.

A long boards needs a long leash, unless you want to hit yourself in the head with the board. Trust me, it happens. It shouldn't be wrapping around your legs anyway, maybe you are wrapping it around your board when you put the board away, thereby causing it to become 'cirkly'?

RWhit wrote:Also...does anyone ever have problems with their leash? I think mine's too long and it always gets caught up and wrapped around my leg. I was so frustrated I almost took it off. Definitely need to get a shorter one.

I've Been surfing a lot of years with very little trouble with leashes. Until I got one made by "Surf More USA". It tangles with its self constantly and it's not curly. anyhow it could be that you just have a lemon of a leash.

as to the leash:

1. it should be approximately the same length as your board.
2. don't wrap it around the tail, or if you do, don't do it very tightly. if you do it too tight you'll make kinks in the leash, thus making it tangle up easily.
3. make sure you get at least a single swivel leash, double swivel is even better. the swivels are either at the end that attaches to the board, and/or the end with the ankle strap. by having the swivels, the leash will untwist itself, helping to evade the dreaded leash leg sweep

I Bought a Knee Leash- It wraps around your calf as opposed to your ankle and it has eliminated the same problems you have. If also helps as you can walk the board easier with it then a ankle leash. It also takes the strain off on the ankle if you get separated from the board.

Experts say to buy a leash at least a foot longer then the board.

yep as long or longer in the leash, ya don't wan't to get the fin/board in the head thing hapenen. HA HA HA my bud ust bought one of those pice of shizz leashes scsurf I made him return it and get a Dakine.

RWhit
The 9 foot long board you have is perfect for a beginner. It provides lots of floatation. This is critical for beginners. It also provides a lot of stability. I steer beginners clear of fun boards and fun shapes. They're usually 7 to 8 feet long; are less broad at nose and tail than long board; and have less floatation. You have to be more aggressive to get a fun shape to work as well as a long board. Case in point: know a woman that started surfing at 42 years of age. She is a marathon runner and started with a very nice looking fun shape. It was forever before she was even able to try and stand. I put her on one of my 9 ft long boards and she stood up on the second wave. All in all, she was doing everything better. I tried her fun shape and found that these things rotate very easily along the long access ("wobble"). Place your foot too far from center or press too hard with hand on rail and it tips over.

So, long story to say, you have the correct board. And, you live in a pretty good location for surfing, too. I've surfed your spots a few times. Hope you continue to have fun.

fun board or longboard whatever! both are great beginner board. the rest is up to you on how much you practice and how much you dedicate to this sport.