Surfing Waves

Ok, so it seems the ocean hates me!! On days were the waes are chest to head high I can not get past the breaking waves to get in the line up, i will litterly try 9-10 times for about 20min each time! If i roll when a wave breaks as soon as i turn back over another wave is breaking! Others with shorter board or taller people who can walk further down the sand bar can make it out easier! The waves seem to break at the same spot everytime and the whole wave breaks at the same time! I walk down the beach in either direction and there is no spot to get out!! How can i get out there?

You just got to keep on trying. After a while(as in weeks) your muscles will build up and you will paddle faster and get out back. Maybe you could time your attempts at paddling out better by waiting for a bit of a lull, or try looking for the rip, must be one somewhere.
Do you really want to surf a closeout tho?

Broosta wrote:Do you really want to surf a closeout tho?

There is a saying here in Pensacola, you take what you get!! It sux though

Route.... its all about route.

If you've got the waves crashing over a sandbank, then dont paddle over the sandbank.
And all that water coming in has got to go out again somewhere, so find that rip and use it.

Sometimes there isnt a rip mate.

We've a beach break here (new brighton) that just doesnt have a rip, all the wash just goes many km's up the shore and if its cranking you can easily get out 5kms further than you got in, and still not make it out back.


john - dont worry too much, just learn & get fitter.

Sometimes its real tough making it out back and you need different techniques to get there.

with a floaty longboard type you need to time it well, aim for the right lul/gap and be able to paddle hell fast (this isnt all that easy is it) and also have enough strength and fitness to power through the waves you do hit.

Experienced people do make it look easy but its not.

uea see thats the thing about here. All the Spots I know is one big sand bank they are between 2-4 feet underwater but thats were everyone sutrfs, as to were the water goes out it goes were it comes in from so it seems, because the wave breaks so far out because the sand bars go a good 15-30 yrds out. I guess i am jusy going to have to suck it up and keep trying, i just thought there might be a lill trick i didnt know about!

Theres lots of tricks. Are you longboarding?

Learn to paddle the board quick. Which means keeping your weight in the right spot and strong smothe paddling to keep the board trimmed. Get every inch of speed & efficiency out of it, if you aim right , time it right you may only have to power through 1 or 2 waves.

Get fitter and stronger. Do you loose hold of your board, get washed back or stop when you get hit with a wave? A little experience and some power can stop that to some extent.

Knowledge of the break will help too, watch if everyone else always uses the same channel to get out. They probably do you know..

And as for the waves themselves, there not always the same, often theres luls between sets, even short ones where you can launch yourself through easier.

Ofcourse if its 4-5ft+ walls of white water every 3-4 seconds consistent then its tough.

Theres no magic bullit though.

yea it a long board and i get knocked back, i keep my board but i get knocked back. I have no probs getting threw with my short board! And yea its 4-5ft of wash evry 2-3 sec. I appretiate all the advise

i
1.stretch.you need it for the sprint.
2.pick up my boardand find a comfortable spot to carry it while running.
3.wait for ANY sort of lull or weak spot
4.charge the waves as far out and paddle like a madman
5.if facing huge whitewash just get the board over or push the board under and eat it.it works
repeat

you will need to learn the duck dive, can turtle roll, but not recommended. work on reading the spot. Watch for a while, see where others are having success. Build strength in paddle and fitness.

the good news is all of this will come in time, and it is fun getting your arse kicked along the way!!

keep the stoke!!

RJD wrote:Sometimes there isnt a rip mate.

Then its still about route...

...drive straight past, carry on driving to the next break that does have a proper rip

Wow no rip? Then wait for a lull then paddle your butt off. I have been where you are and it is hard but trust me you will get it.

yup youve got to wait for a lull in the sets. there will be one. if its short period stuff you might have to wait for a while but there will be a lull eventually.