Surfing Waves

catching and standing up on the 1-3 footers are easy i can bottom turn on em and everything. bit of a swell hit San Diego this weekend. so i went out yesterday and today. waves were huge! bout head high id say?
everytime id catch the wave. id pop up and end up dropping the whole height! ate xxxxx! haha sucked...

so ne tips on catching bigger waves?
i ride a 6'10" shortboard. im 5'5" 160 pds. if that helps...?

I had that problem too...the odd time I'd make the drop, but mostly got hammered! Taking off at a slight angle helped me sort it out, not a huge angle but just enough so you dont drop straight down.

Really depends on the type of wave. If you have a steep wave and the swell is fast, you have to be ready for the speed. The board will tend to want to shoot out from underneath you if you aren't aggressive about getting up on it.

Angling always helps, as well. But sometimes you just have to be ready for that drop and keep your balance.

paddle hard, take off earlier, and be fearless ;p

rich r wrote:The board will tend to want to shoot out from underneath you if you aren't aggressive about getting up on it.

I get that often when i take off a split second too late

If you care to follow the advice I got : https://surfing-waves.com/forum/view ... hp?t=11047