Surfing Waves

Hi all,

New to the forum and have been away from surfing for 10 years. I've been back in the water a month and although it started a little strange, it's coming back slowly! I'm now 36 but fit, 5'7 and 62 kilos.

I have been trying a few boards that I've rented from a 7'2 mini-mal,through a short fish, to a normal short board. Waves are 2-3 feet most days max out about 4 feet beach break. I went for a longer board to start with thinking I was now at the age where I couldn't hack a shorty but hated it.

I also tried a modern epoxy fish and caught everything (never been on one before) although it felt slow when actually riding the waves. A 6'6 shorty felt the best, didn't struggle fitness wise at all (which surprised me even though I train) and so thought I'm not ready for the longboard thing just yet.

I just yesterday, got hold of a 6'6 James Cheal shaped surfboard secondhand at a good price. I'd say it was about 6 years old but in good shape and I know nothing about modern boards!

I would appreciate if you could let me know what has happened in this area in the last 10 years e.g. the benefits of a fish and what they're usually ridden in? What the hell a hybrid is? Why so many now appear to be riding longer boards? How have shortish 6'4s 6'6s changed in design the last 10 years and finally longer term your suggestions on what would suit best in a board with 3 foot swell that doesn't barrel most days.

I've seen a lot of older guys (mid 30's - 40's) on custom fish at the local breaks, (maybe its a good safe allround bet because of the average conditions) but as I said I don't really even know what their pros and cons are. Last I remember they were just coming in through Tom Curren's intro at the time.

Sorry if it was a bit long winded. I'm just glad to be back and any advice or overview would be welcome.


Mak

Fish boards are like longboards in the shape of shortboards . I think they're good for waves a a little above head high but not suited for double overhead and what not.

Beachbum wrote:Fish boards are like longboards in the shape of shortboards . I think they're good for waves a a little above head high but not suited for double overhead and what not.

This is completely wrong.

Fish are nothing like longboards. Yes, they take off easier than shortboards, but they're very loose (ie unstable), and also lose drive very quickly so you have to work them rail to rail to keep them moving.

They're also utterly unsuitable for headhigh waves as they dont have enough rocker. Think knee to waist, maybe chest high if its not steep.

^^

all true apart from you can use them in head high waves as long as theyre not steep pitchy head high waves. not like longboards. i can ride a fish. i cant ride a longboard.

drowningbitbybit wrote:Fish are nothing like longboards. Yes, they take off easier than shortboards, but they're very loose (ie unstable), and also lose drive very quickly so you have to work them rail to rail to keep them moving. They're also utterly unsuitable for headhigh waves as they dont have enough rocker.

Drowningbitbybit, you don't make them sound very appealing as transition boards. What kind would you recommend for someone who is used to a 7'2'' minimal but wants a bit more maneuverability without losing too much foam. I've been thinking about a new board for three months now, but I just don't know what type to go for.

Thibb wrote:Drowningbitbybit, you don't make them sound very appealing as transition boards. What kind would you recommend for someone who is used to a 7'2'' minimal but wants a bit more maneuverability without losing too much foam. I've been thinking about a new board for three months now, but I just don't know what type to go for.

There's a common misconception that fish are good boards for a surfers first real board after a minimal - but they're not very stable (part of the appeal), and depending on what kinda of surf you're on they can inhibit rather than help.

The advantage of them is that they can be ridden on very small waves, and they're easy to paddle (until there's some chop, then they can become a nightmare).

If you're moving down from a 7'2 and want more maneuverability, but want to keep the foam, then I'd be going with either a fatboy flier type board, or maybe a hybrid fish around the 6'4-6'6 mark.

Ive got a 6'6 hybrid fish and its the easiest thing in the world to surf on

surferdude_scarborough wrote:^^

all true apart from you can use them in head high waves as long as theyre not steep pitchy head high waves.

We have different definitions of 'headhigh' and 'steep' these days

A few more questions guys, if you don't mind especially aimed at those who've been surfing a long long time.

If you take a modernish short board. What is the difference between a swallow, pinny or stand squash tail as regard what it does and in what conditions? Believe it or not I used to know this stuff but after 10 years I need some refreshing!

Also Drowningbitbybit, you have a 6'6 hybrid, I'm just curious as to why you chose that over say a 6'6 short board design? Would it be your day to day break is better suited and if so why?

I got in the weekend on a CHP 6'6 and it was the fastest thing I've ever tried! Swallow tail (if there still called that), shorty and real thin, could ride it but only just way to good a board for me yet!

Anway any answers to my questions would be great.

a normal day wrote:
Also Drowningbitbybit, you have a 6'6 hybrid, I'm just curious as to why you chose that over say a 6'6 short board design? Would it be your day to day break is better suited and if so why?

I've got a bunch of shortboards already

Seriously though - at the time I wanted a board with a little more volume than a shortboard for surfing smaller waves, but I didnt want a proper retro fish (Im not all that keen on them - I think the volume a 6' guy needs makes them 'corky'. Just my opinion though).
And the 6'6 hybrid is great in small conditions, and can be ridden on much bigger waves if they're a bit fat.

So, in a nutshell, its a shortboard that can be ridden on longboard type breaks/conditions. (But its not like riding a longboard. At all)

Utter liability in steep heavy waves though

This site should be able to roughly explain your shape questions.

http://www.rusty.com/index.cfm?page=2&shaping=1

Many thanks for the information at Rusty, I've had a look and it's come back a little now. Actually other than the popularity of the fish in recent years it doesn't seemed to have changed all that much!.