Catching that wave; what am I doing wrong?

[immortal technique]

Got a 6'10 funboard and surfed multiple times at the beginner spots. when I see a good wave, i start paddling. I feel my board pick up for a second and the wave seems to always pass me. whenever I pop up when I feel the wave picking my board up, I end up stalling and just eating it. what am I doing wrong?

[LOLRuss]

In my limited time surfing I've found that is caused by a few things: Your timing is probably off, and you're catching it too early or too late. You probably can't paddle very well yet so you aren't getting enough speed. And your weight is probably too far back on the board - so you fall off the back. Surf more, timing improves. Paddle more, paddling improves. Slide forward on the board until you pearl (nose dives under water) when you catch a wave - then slide back a bit until that doesn't happen.

Just my 2 cents - I'm a beginner.

[CHarvey]

When you move closer to the nose of your board make sure you are arching your back. Also, when dropping in put a little more weight on your front foot to get you into the wave.

[justloafing]

Got a 6'10 funboard and surfed multiple times at the beginner spots. when I see a good wave, i start paddling. I feel my board pick up for a second and the wave seems to always pass me. whenever I pop up when I feel the wave picking my board up, I end up stalling and just eating it. what am I doing wrong?

How big are you height and weight?

All the above are excellent points.

Maybe a couple of other notes:

Are you to deep. In other words..are you catching the wave right before it starts to break? Or are you to deep and the wave does not break right before you catch it?

One other thing and sometimes I still do it. I need to paddle one or two more strokes before I catch it. I longboard so this may not pertain to you quite as much but it may help. Before you stand make sure you are gliding across the wave. As you get better you probably wont have to do this as much.

Last thing I can think of that was not mentioned above(all great things and need to be addressed.) Those last few paddles are you really going hard? The last few strokes you really have to dig hard but smooth. Don't let your board rock side to side as you paddle.

As LOLRuss said. You need to experiment and find out where that perfect balance is. If you pearl and your arching your back. On the next wave move a 1/2-1 inch back. You want to be at the perfect point to where your at the right place on your board that if you move any more foward you pearl. This may sound stupid but when I find that perfect place I lay on my board and put my my nose on the deck and then I scratch the wax where my nose met the deck that way when I get ready to catch the next wave I can see where I need to be on the board.

[CHarvey]

Something I used to do is when I would be on a short board I would lay down and then put my arms in front of me. As long the nose of the board was hitting the bottom of the palm of my hand I knew I was in the right spot.

[isaluteyou]

position is key to just about everything in surfing. Wether it is for dropping into a wave, preparing for a manevour, or positioning for a tube. In all respects if you are positioned wrong maenaing your weight is not distributed right you are not gonne achieve the desired result.

If you are eating it on takeoff constantly this usually means your are way to far forward on the board thus gravity is gonna work against you creating a far too sharp dive i.e perling. Too far back and you dont have the momentum to take make the wave.

Choosing the right wave will also be paramount to getting the desired results. Also make sure you never hestitate even a fraction of hestitation will either result in you missing the wave or munching some sand

These are just a few things to think about as no one can really give spot on advice without actually seeing you surf

[LOLRuss]

One thing that REALLY helps me when this is happening some days is to make sure to LIFT YOUR FEET once you feel the wave start to pick you up. This shifts your weight forward and will get you the wave more often if your weight is too far back.

Another trick is to try a two armed paddle the last couple, once you feel the wave start to pick you up.

Also, and I just kinda 'figured this out' (despite being told this several times) that you often need to paddle a couple times once you think you've caught the wave. Often you will feel that you have caught it, but really you're not going quite as fast as the wave so you have to paddle 2-3 more times and then you're fast enough to pop up. If you keep fighting like hell for a wave you'll be surprised how many more you get.

I agree that you should have someone watch you miss a wave - and then ask what you did wrong. Most experienced surfers in the lineup can tell you exactly what you did wrong if you're missing the waves... the advice is a bit harder once you're on a wave cause they can't see you.

Also, the right spot for experienced long boarders is not always the same for a noobie. For a long time I had to stay 10-20 feet further inside just to get a ride, as I was not fast enough when paddling. So like mentioned above, you may be too far out. Get out in small surf and catch right as they break (on you), you can't miss them then, and then move outside gradually.

[stonebrew4life]

maybe you need a bigger board

[immortal technique]

Thanks all for the advice. I guess my major concern is the position on the board when i'm out there and experience.

stonebrew4life: yeah, i've been thinking about that one. however, I spent good money on this FB (bought it new) and eventually i'd move down to shortboarding anyway

[LOLRuss]

Thanks all for the advice. I guess my major concern is the position on the board when i'm out there and experience.

stonebrew4life: yeah, i've been thinking about that one. however, I spent good money on this FB (bought it new) and eventually i'd move down to shortboarding anyway

Well, but on a larger board you would probably be catching those waves right now. How is your time better spent?

[isaluteyou]

I spent good money on this FB (bought it new) and eventually i'd move down to shortboarding anyway

Yep it sounds like your only real problem is just water time/experience so get out there and soldier on

[CHarvey]

Yep it sounds like your only real problem is just water time/experience so get out there and soldier on :wink:[/quote]

Soldier on?!?! With a wink no less.

[RJD]

Thanks all for the advice. I guess my major concern is the position on the board when i'm out there and experience.

stonebrew4life: yeah, i've been thinking about that one. however, I spent good money on this FB (bought it new) and eventually i'd move down to shortboarding anyway

Yep - because not catching any waves will get you on that shortboard quicker.

If your not catching any waves now, why not move straight to a shortboard and miss waves on the board you realy want to be on?

[isaluteyou]

Yep it sounds like your only real problem is just water time/experience so get out there and soldier on :wink:

Soldier on?!?! With a wink no less. [/quote]

[WaveRiderJ]

Immortal technique, neato band

[ambolina]

Wow, lots of great advice from everyone! Immortal Technique, I have the same struggles you do trying to catch the wave. For me, I'm not super strong and I know it's because I don't start paddling soon enough (for the small stuff) and I usually stop paddling about two strokes too soon. When you think you've paddled enough, paddle two or three more strokes and that'll probably be the right amount. Also, if you start paddling sooner, don't paddle hard, just some soft strokes to get going and then stronger, deeper strokes after it gets closer - you don't want to get too far ahead of the wave and have it crash on you. And everyone's advice about making sure you aren't too far on the outside of the wave is right on too.

Justloafing - I like your nose mark technique! I'm golden at finding the sweet spot on an 8'6 (my toes need to be at the end of the board), but on my own 7'6, I always feel like I'm guessing even though you'd think I just need to be 1 foot further back on the board. I'll have to try and mark my wax when I go out tomorrow...

[Beachbum]

ya just lie on your stomach and keep paddling until you know for sure you got it!

[Oceanbreather]

I've got a similar problem. I start pearling the second I catch the wave so I have to leanback which makes it impossible to pop up. But when I reposition further back on the board I have to much drag to catch the wave in time. What angle should I be at toward the shore, 45 degrees? And where should my hands be on the rails for popping up?

[LOLRuss]

I've got a similar problem. I start pearling the second I catch the wave so I have to leanback which makes it impossible to pop up. But when I reposition further back on the board I have to much drag to catch the wave in time. What angle should I be at toward the shore, 45 degrees? And where should my hands be on the rails for popping up?

For me the right balance is to be just far enough back that the tip of the board is barely out of the water with my legs on the board, and then I LIFT my legs when the wave comes, which pushes the nose down, but not enough that I pearl.

[drowningbitbybit]

I've got a similar problem. I start pearling the second I catch the wave so I have to leanback which makes it impossible to pop up. But when I reposition further back on the board I have to much drag to catch the wave in time. What angle should I be at toward the shore, 45 degrees? And where should my hands be on the rails for popping up?

The moment you need to lean back... pop up, you've caught the wave. You're not supposed to be popping up at the bottom of the wave but at the top - so dont hesitate, just stand up.

What angle is dependent on wave, break, board and most of all surfer. If you're not catching them then you dont need to worry about an angle yet - just head dead towards the shore. Angling the board allows you to turn on the face quicker, but you need to be catching them first.

And finally - your hands shouldnt be on the rails! Put your hands on the deck to pop up - it makes popping up quicker and eaiser and also shunts the board forward so can help with catching the wave.

The catching a wave/leaning back/hands on deck/pop up should all be part of one smooth maneouvre.