Surfing Waves

I've got a 7'4 funboard / fatboy flier, whatever you wanna call it, I've been riding it for about a year, year and a half now. I put in a fair bit if time, averaging maybe two weekends a month and the odd week here and there but I don't seem to be improving.

Since I bought it I've learned to catch unbroken waves although my positioning frequently sucks.

My main problem seems to be stalling. I've tried a lot to compensate for that like moving a bit further forward on the board and staying low to start with but I don't seem to be learning as much as I'd like.

I know people (essex!) who've learned on shortboards and I was wondering if maybe I should buy a second board to see if that helps or maybe take a lesson or two.

Any thoughts or advice please?

Stone Fox wrote:I know people (essex!) who've learned on shortboards and I was wondering if maybe I should buy a second board to see if that helps

You're not progressing on a mini-mal so you think buying a shortboard will help?

drowningbitbybit wrote:

Stone Fox wrote:I know people (essex!) who've learned on shortboards and I was wondering if maybe I should buy a second board to see if that helps

You're not progressing on a mini-mal so you think buying a shortboard will help?

Enuff said.

^^ agreed.
Stone, the shortie is not the direction I recommend going. Either stick it out with the fat mans shortie, or get a longboard. A hi performance log will get you more waves and build your skill and confidence.

If you are gonna stay on the 7'4 you need to surf more. Lessons are a waste if you have the basics. Just need time in the water, without long breaks between sessions.

Treat yourself to a surf trip.

Good luck
parry

what leg you put in front? right or left?
i'm a beginner also, the first 2 sessions i learn using left foot in front, but didn't seem to work, so on 3rd session i switch it to right foot, and it works.. more stable and easier to control, and i can stand on the board longer time than using left foot.

hope this can help..

I just started, and people tell me if I want to improve fast it takes 3 days a week.

drowningbitbybit wrote:You're not progressing on a mini-mal so you think buying a shortboard will help?

Very helpful. Thanks.



I'm not neccesarily considering a shortboard, although I have been considering renting / trying something a couple of inches shorter to see if I get on with it better.

A longboard does seem like a fairly good idea, I've been talking about it for a while but I've heard it said (don't know how true it is) that once you get used to a longboard it makes it even harder to try a shortboard - any opinions?


As for the leg question, I'm very left handed so I surf with my right leg forwards.

After I bought my current board my surfing progressed quite quickly for a while but seems to have stalled.

I'm due a fairly large chunk of cash soon from an insurance payout (dunno if anyone remembers me talking about the crash I was in July of last year) and I'm planning on buying at least one more board possibly two, and I'd like some constructive advice please...? (that's if anyone is feeling nice enough to help! )

sounds like youve hit a bit of a plateau at the moment. are you standing and turning ok on your funboard and want to do more? or is it that you're having trouble with it. i say stick at it for a while. surfing progress tends to come in lumps rather than a smooth progression ive found so far. so surf as much as you can then the next step will come. dunno about the longboard thing because i learned on a shortboard.

i hope one of those two new boards is a longboard. man i'd kill for a really good longboard. really though to progress you just need to get out there and surf... a lot.

i learnt on a shortboard but longer boards could help technique for when you move down to a shortboard although i don't know how hard the transaction would be? once you can stand and ride along the wave (sounds like you can) then try pumping a little to stay on the face which will also help you gain some speed. maybe try to even out your weight on both feet a little more

rto3 wrote:really though to progress you just need to get out there and surf... a lot.

That's all there is to it!!!!

A couple of weekends here and there isnt going to get you anywhere.......especially here in this country where you're not guaranteed waves when you get to the beach.

When you get your payout, dont buy another board, buy a flight to Bali where you'll get consistent waves everyday and you'll see your surfing improve

(Cant believe I wrote something constructive with no irony or sarcasm....I must be growing up )

Stone Fox wrote:

drowningbitbybit wrote:You're not progressing on a mini-mal so you think buying a shortboard will help?

Very helpful. Thanks.

I tried to teach you some stuff once.
First of all, when I was trying to teach you which wave to pick, you suddenly paddled off because 'I had to get that wave!' You picked the wrong wave

Then when people tried to surf around you and give you helpful tips, you ignored them and just got in the way (remember that essex? )

And then the next day when you shouldnt have been anywhere near the water - it was dangerous, you were dangerous - you ignored the advice of people much better than you, and not surprisingly got the sh1t kicked out of you.




So my advice, perhaps, would be to listen to what other people are telling you.

yep i do rember i have a nice crack along the rail of that board now from that but hay thats life

u will get there in the end one day it will all fall in place for u like it has for me since i got my qued fish and matt is right about one thing u need too work on your wave chose and sit and wait abit longer for the right wave

i would say stick with the board u have for the mo

Stone Fox wrote:My main problem seems to be stalling.

It's a clutch/throttle balancing act.....

flyingvee wrote:

Stone Fox wrote:My main problem seems to be stalling.

It's a clutch/throttle balancing act.....

hehe

im telling you right a learning on a shortboard is complete hell. believe me i know. I saw all those guys out there ripping on shortboards and thought to my self "wow i really wanna do that" so i went out bought a used 6' board. paddled out... i looked like such a douche bag. so if anything get yourself something bigger like an 8' foot 6 or something. but idk its your choice but in my opinion shorter is not the way to go for a beginner.

drowningbitbybit wrote:I tried to teach you some stuff once.
First of all, when I was trying to teach you which wave to pick, you suddenly paddled off because 'I had to get that wave!' You picked the wrong wave
Then when people tried to surf around you and give you helpful tips, you ignored them and just got in the way (remember that essex? )
And then the next day when you shouldnt have been anywhere near the water - it was dangerous, you were dangerous - you ignored the advice of people much better than you, and not surprisingly got the sh1t kicked out of you.

Ouch. If I was that bad, then I'm sorry dude. I guess I was just a little over enthusiastic, but then I tend to be when I'm in the water.

Thanks for trying though mate.

I promise I'll make an effort to listen more!


As for the surfing, I'll try a longboard guys. The reason I was thinking of a shorter board is that sometimes it really does feel like I've got too much board to handle easily with my current one.

I'll try a couple of rentals to start with.

Surferdude;- I'm catching unbroken waves and standing alright, it's my turning that's the problem; and the stalling. I can usually turn 'along' a wave once I've caught it but staying on it can be an issue.

One thing everyone seems to be saying is surf more. Will do, promise!

Ouch. If I was that bad, then I'm sorry dude. I guess I was just a little over enthusiastic, but then I tend to be when I'm in the water.

Being constructive - I'd also say you need to accept your (current) limits and take more time picking waves and learning about how, where and why to paddle....(both in and out)

I've only seen you surf once (not that you'd know - but trust me, you kind of stick out) and to be honest, you need to calm right down to save yourself a load of grief.

Paddling out through incoming surfers and making no attempt (or not being able to) get out of their way isn't good. Neither is paddling in a rip that you obviously knew nothing about (you were one wave away from ending up in the rocks). And when you get into a lineup that really was obviously a little beyond your level, turning round and paddling for every wave, yet getting hardly any (due to the stalling problem you mention) is not going to win you any friends........

Hire/buy a longer board, get some basic understanding of the water, brush up on your etiquette and get some basic moves sorted out.

Oh - and progressing isn't the be all and end all - having fun, whilst not upsetting anyone else, is what to aim for.........

From all the replies it does seem like all you really need is more time in the water. But if you can't get that then the next things to do are:
1 - raise fitness levels
2 - watch more surf vids
3 - try skateboarding
4 - try to get it into your head that its all about the journey not the destination.
5 - when in the water focus more on having fun whilst out there than trying to progress.
6 - pay more attention to your surroundings when in the water, take it all in.

old thread but gonna stick my beak in anyway..... had the same problem myself until i was loaned a longboard recently.
if your popup and turns are ok then its "facetime" you are after.
simple answer... re-examine your goals... then get a longer board!
longer board = more waves and longer rides/earlier take offs = more fun!