Surfing Waves

I have a bit of a pain with late take offs, it is fin and all but getting back on the face after wards is a pain, plust, I often dig in the nose when that happens, can somebody give me some advice on really late take offs?

sometimes need to move back a bit on your board to keep the nose out, otherwise its just getting the timing right.

Thanks, I'll prefer tio be a bit back on my board anyway, more stability.

late takeoffs are fun.

be prepared to take a few dickings though because you wont get it right all the time.

be committed. paddle hard. pop as quick as possible as soon as you know the waves caught you. better to pop a little soon and git pitched standing than get pitched from lying on your board.

oh and dont do it on reefs or points or you will hit the bottom. hard.

oh and dont do it on reefs or points or you will hit the bottom. hard.

yep i have the scars to prove it.

Thing with late takeoffs as was said you have to be commited if you hesitate even a little then you gonna get a pasting Even if you dont hestitate its no guarantee you will make it

While late take offs are fun, they require a developed skill. And, as mentioned, you must commit to doing it.

Faf, you can experiment to determine whether you are really taking off late and improve your timing. When the nose begins to pearl, you'll slide off the back end of the board and the experiment is with the amount that you slide backward. If you only need to slide back a little bit to pull the nose out of the pearl, then you weren't really very late. If you need to slide back a lot to pull the nose out of the pearl, then you were very late. When you have to slide backward very far, you may find that it kills nearly all foward momentum. The wave will usually rush past you when this happens.

I think you should paddle as hard as you can(more than what you can actually), that's what really saved me in some situation..

I have to disagree pk, on a late take off you should only have to paddle once or twice if you are in proper position. Sometimes you can even do a "Chicken Joe" and not paddle at all! I know it sounds incredible, but I do Chicken Joe's quite often, and I'm very fond of two paddle take offs. It's all a matter of developing your skills to reach that point. Takes time, maybe years depending on how often you get to surf.
Keep the stoke Brah, you'll get there!

surferdude_scarborough wrote:late takeoffs are fun.

be prepared to take a few dickings though because you wont get it right all the time.

be committed. paddle hard. pop as quick as possible as soon as you know the waves caught you. better to pop a little soon and git pitched standing than get pitched from lying on your board.

oh and dont do it on reefs or points or you will hit the bottom. hard.

I only surf a point, the beach here is REALLY inconsistant and has too many rips. I useully don't try and get a late take-off, it just sometimes happen, personally I try and avoid it, to scary, esp. if I don't make it.

Otter wrote: on a late take off you should only have to paddle once or twice if you are in proper position. Sometimes you can even do a "Chicken Joe" and not paddle at all! I know it sounds incredible, but I do Chicken Joe's quite often, and I'm very fond of two paddle take offs. It's all a matter of developing your skills to reach that point. Takes time, maybe years depending on how often you get to surf.
Keep the stoke Brah, you'll get there!

Got to agree with you Otter my man, I often sit in a little and wait for the wave to jack a little so I can pick off a "late takeoff" so I can catch a wave with little or no paddling. I get pounded sometimes but Ifind the drops fun seriously

BUT, I also must agree that until you are confident and know what you are doing and can actually do it correctly most of the time, paddle hard everytime, as hard as you can, as you will have more success.

My bigest problem with late take offs are that over here you have to catch a wave and work it down the face a little before it breaks, because of a section that is impposible to catch but hard to make if you catch the wave a bit late.

Otter wrote:I have to disagree pk, on a late take off you should only have to paddle once or twice if you are in proper position. Sometimes you can even do a "Chicken Joe" and not paddle at all! I know it sounds incredible, but I do Chicken Joe's quite often, and I'm very fond of two paddle take offs. It's all a matter of developing your skills to reach that point. Takes time, maybe years depending on how often you get to surf.
Keep the stoke Brah, you'll get there!

Ya the no paddle senario is pretty rare on a shortboard you just have to be in the right position and anticipate how the wave will jack up. But mostly for late takeoffs you should only need to put in a few strokes. Too many and chances are you will over paddle

In fact just about any wave is doable as long as you are in the right position. That said on bigger days it takes some balls to sit on the inside and hope you dont get murdered by the swash

thats all about staying high on the face and pumping or if the section is about to break try a floater (probs quite jhard after a couple of monrths of surfing) or drop down to the bottom and try and get around the section. its not easy surfing these sorta waves if you've only just started

Faf,
do you surf at a location in which the wind is blowing strong from land to sea (offshore wind)? I surfed these conditions today and thought about you because there was a huge tendancy for the board nose to pearl. In these conditions, you have to pop up fast, almost jumping to add force to the tail end of the board in order to pull the nose out. Another "must do" with waves under these conditions, is the need to paddle really hard right at the point when you are catching the wave. A minor point is that you have to be a little farther forward than normal when paddling to catch waves when the offshore wind is affecting them.

Sillysausage wrote:thats all about staying high on the face and pumping or if the section is about to break try a floater (probs quite jhard after a couple of monrths of surfing) or drop down to the bottom and try and get around the section. its not easy surfing these sorta waves if you've only just started

Getting around it wont work (it breaks way flat, I will lose all my speed) but I will try a floater, btw is a floater harder than a full top-turn? (smacking the lip, not just a little turn in the middle, but not a re-entry either) or would I need to be able to smack it pretty good before I can do a floater, because I am having quite a bit of problems with my top turn, being a complete noob and all. (but I am getting better quite quickly, I just have to keep my cool, so far my biggest problem is when I catch a wave I forget EVERYTHING untill the wave is over. But currently I just wish I had something to practise on, it is summer right now (whell, it is becoming autumn, and the waves should get better, but with global warming the summer is starting to get longer, but I am thinking the swell would come in any day now.) and the waves suck balls, in the past month there was like 1 day where the waves where over waist high and offshore
I found the problem with my nose digging in was that the wave was so pathetically small yet steep that when I catch it my nose goes directly down into the water, but with my new 6'6" with twice as much rocker my nose doesn't dig in, ifact, late take-offs are easyer than early take-ofs now, since I have more speed for a better bottom turn.

having the right amount of tail foil helps in steeper waves with late takeoffs...otherwise as mentioned dont hesitate back yourself all the way and take off on a slight angle if your not doing this already.

Otter wrote:I have to disagree pk, on a late take off you should only have to paddle once or twice if you are in proper position. Sometimes you can even do a "Chicken Joe" and not paddle at all! I know it sounds incredible, but I do Chicken Joe's quite often, and I'm very fond of two paddle take offs. It's all a matter of developing your skills to reach that point. Takes time, maybe years depending on how often you get to surf.
Keep the stoke Brah, you'll get there!

Wow chicken joe take off works in real life? imma try it out tommorow

Late take-offs? Is that when I misjudge the wave, it breaks on my back and I hold onto the back of the board for dear life then get spin cycled?

lolruss, that happens if you don't make the late takeoff. otherwise you will be flying down the line

Sillysausage wrote:lolruss, that happens if you don't make the late takeoff. otherwise you will be flying down the line

i think he means that he is too close in and a set comes and breaks just before him as he paddles for it. Same thing though


paddle out a bit more and get your timing right when paddling for a wave