Surfing Waves

Really starting to progress now, but having a sh*tload of trouble doing turtle-rolls...

I try to grab the board near the nose and hold it as close to my body as possible, but I just end up upside-down like a dead fish, with a nose full of water. I cant ever get back uprite!!

Do you guys have any tips or "trade secrets" so I can at least pretend Im good and get past the breakers?

Any help much appreciated!

your on a mal? just walk out as far as you can. wait for a lul between sets and then paddle like fark and youll be off back no problemo

ifs it howling onshore dont worry if you cant make it out back

well I usually use a 7'2, is it possible to duck dive that?

I can duck my 7'2", but that thing is so waterlogged and I am quite big, I can't be a judge of that. When turtel rolling swing your whole body and use your momentum to turn and immediatly turn again, basically roll through the whole thing, like some guy in The Matrix.

What??

JUST. SHUT. UP. YOU. FOOL!!!!

a_person - just ignore the above post - the guy is talking out of his arse!!

When you first get to the water, take your time and work out the time period between the sets - get a feeling for how the waves are breaking, etc.

Then look for any channels or rips that'll help you (clue - look for flat areas between the peaks)

Now - as Danny Boy says - walk out as far as you can (as long as that doesn't leave you in the impact area) and wait for one of those lulls - then go for it!!

If you HAVE to turtle roll, then paddle towards the wave at 90 degrees and then when it's about a couple of board lengths away, roll over, holding the rails at the point you'd normally place your hands for a pop up.

Keep some downward pressure on the nose end and allow your legs to fall toward the seabed - so you end up sort of doing an inverted handstand on the board (it won't quite get that far, but it gives you an idea).

Doing this will end up like an anchor to minimise any movement back to shore - you need to give yourself plenty of time to 'sink' and keep a good hold of the board, so make any move quite early.

Once the wave has passed, pull up and flatten your body back against the board as you roll it back upright - not always easy, but all about practice.

If you don't make much progress and end up further back, then that's just down to lack of paddle strength and timing in the roll.

Have about 15 minutes of full on effort to get out back - but if you're still not getting past the impact zone, go back into the shore and take a breather - when you've recovered, try again!

Hope that helps a bit............

a_person wrote:... with a nose full of water.

I think I know what you mean here. Not sure this is the way to go about it, but what I do, is just exhale really hard through my nose. The air going out keeps the water from going in. The only problem is you run out of air pretty quickly. If someone has a better trick...

Thibb wrote:

a_person wrote:... with a nose full of water.

I think I know what you mean here. Not sure this is the way to go about it, but what I do, is just exhale really hard through my nose. The air going out keeps the water from going in. The only problem is you run out of air pretty quickly. If someone has a better trick...

It's not about exhaling through your nose, you just have to exhale enough to equalize the pressure, then hold and don't try to inhale.

a_person,
I had trouble with them, too. Then a more experienced buddy encouraged me to watch him from a few feet behind him and things have improved for me after this. The first thing he showed me was to be more aggressive. He'd lunge toward the forward end of the board. He'd grab it and push down hard and, when twisting it into a roll, he'd lock his legs around the board. I started doing these things and my life with waves improved greatly. It's all true. Hope it helps.

Try this if the wave isn't to juicy for your skill level.

If you longboard;

Sit back on your board getting the nose high in the air, pointing skyward and toward the wave. As the wave approaches, pull the nose of your board down, so that the tail goes deeper, keeping the nose pointed skyward. When the wave gets close enough, and timing is very important, allow the board to rise up out of the water. It might seem like a "boomer" submarine doing an emergency surface, almost bobbing out of the water. As it rises, do a slight kick with your legs and mount the board just as the nose goes over the whitewash. The rushing wave will increase the force on the tail, popping you over the wave.

OK, don't write back saying this won't work. It does, I do it quite often. The timing is what's critical.

Sounds like an awesome idea, Ill give at shot for sure! Definately sounds like a more pleasant alternative to the tutrle-roll.

seen people doing that otter, works pretty well but i'd be worried about taking a smack in the nads.

lol am I the only who manages to smack his nads right on the water day after day?

Looks like the family name will not live on after all...

Hey Silly,
Just keep your board under control with your legs, don't let it even come any closer to your boys than it would under normal circumstances.

Otter wrote:Try this if the wave isn't to juicy for your skill level.

If you longboard;

Sit back on your board getting the nose high in the air, pointing skyward and toward the wave. As the wave approaches, pull the nose of your board down, so that the tail goes deeper, keeping the nose pointed skyward. When the wave gets close enough, and timing is very important, allow the board to rise up out of the water. It might seem like a "boomer" submarine doing an emergency surface, almost bobbing out of the water. As it rises, do a slight kick with your legs and mount the board just as the nose goes over the whitewash. The rushing wave will increase the force on the tail, popping you over the wave.

OK, don't write back saying this won't work. It does, I do it quite often. The timing is what's critical.

With a longboard I've always done turtle rolls just fine, but this technique mentioned above was demonstrated to me by a surf coach. It was amazing. It worked for him so much better than a turtle roll when the wave was appropriate (ie - not absolutely insanely huge). It seemed as if he was projected further out beyond the wave, rather than losing even an inch of distance. I'm definitely going to work on getting better at this. I've seen the light. This really works.

I ride a 10'0 and i duck dive it in OH conditions and bigger. It is about positioning and timing. That comes with much practice.

Practice duck dives on flat days.....you need to be able to scoop under the water. when you get the scoop you will know it, it will get you under huge waves as if they are not there.

parrysurf wrote:I ride a 10'0 and i duck dive it in OH conditions and bigger. It is about positioning and timing. That comes with much practice.

Practice duck dives on flat days.....you need to be able to scoop under the water. when you get the scoop you will know it, it will get you under huge waves as if they are not there.

What are you 12 ft. tall and 580 pounds?

6'2" 230....You need to get a little momentum, shift forward, pearl nose and force it down with a push up with one leg pointing at the sky. This all must be timed with the wave, cuz if ya do it early you'll pop back up. Timed right the wave will crash or roll into you as you are peaking your decent. The wave will push your tail down and this will scoop your DISBELIEVING ASS right under.


I did it this morning....justloafing, want a private lesson, not cheap, but worth it.

Yeah I need a lesson in duckdiving my 9' 6". But I will let you know when I can surf huge waves first. Money is no object

justloafing wrote:Yeah I need a lesson in duckdiving my 9' 6". But I will let you know when I can surf huge waves first. Money is no object

money no object????? jump on a plane and catch some of what we have been getting.

http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/photo_ ... m?id=13938

several of my local spots in these shots on surfline.......been a good winter.