Surfing Waves

I'm having trouble getting speed down the line. I rode my friends 6'4 lost which is about 2 3/8 inches thick, i'm about 5'6 ft. tall, I had no trouble riding down the line in 2-3 foot chop waves. Then yesterday i got out in about 4 foot clean swell on my board which is a 5'11 and 2 inches thick, and i could come down make a bottom turn but when i got to the lip i lost all speed and couldn't ride down the line cuz i couldn't get and speed. I don't know how to do S turn i just pump.

Do you think my board is the problem or do i just need to work on my technique more? Also how do you get speed down the line as well? thanks for the help.

try generating power in your bottom turn in your legs

compress at the bottom, lean in, back up the wave face and release near the top half of the wave

the most powerful parts of the wave are near the peak in the top half, if you find your self outrunning the wave cut back inside

O_Danny_Boy wrote:try generating power in your bottom turn in your legs

compress at the bottom, lean in, back up the wave face and release near the top half of the wave

the most powerful parts of the wave are near the peak in the top half, if you find your self outrunning the wave cut back inside

Only thing i can add is that if when you make a bottom turn try to make it as powerfull as possible so that the power in you legs and weight distribution creates a sling shot effect

When you hit the lip you should get a surge of speed when you're coming down with the lip. Staying higher on the wave and keeping close to the curl are some ways to gain speed since those are the fastest parts of the wave. The speed issue might have something to do with your board, but it's hard to say without looking at your board, the waves, and your technique. A slightly longer board with more volume and a flatter tail rocker should provide more drive (sounds like you're riding a potato chip). Larger fins can provide more drive too, but will make your board tighter in the turns.

smallwavegrovellerchick wrote:(sounds like you're riding a potato chip)..

Funniest surf related one liner I ever read.

You showing your ignorance Faf? A potato chip is slang for a slender shortboard.

as 'smallwavegrovellerchick' says, stay high on the face of the wave and unless you're wanting to do a big manouver stay fairly close to the whitewater.

Yeah... sounds like your turning too deep or too far in front of the wave... Stay high on the face and keep your bottom turns tight and closer to the pocket.
It takes a bit of skill for the big sweeping bottom turn before smacking the lip or moving into a cut back.

thanks for the help guys....still waiting on some swell to practice though, ohh the joy of living in florida!

Otter wrote:You showing your ignorance Faf? A potato chip is slang for a slender shortboard.

I didn't know that when I posted that, but when I found out I tought "oh xxxxx, I am so going to get flamed from indo to hawaii".

The Fafanator wrote:

Otter wrote:You showing your ignorance Faf? A potato chip is slang for a slender shortboard.

I didn't know that when I posted that, but when I found out I tought "oh xxxxx, I am so going to get flamed from indo to hawaii".

Why not Bangcock to London?

Think of two good surf spots that are on opposite sides of the world, there is your awnser.

indo and hawaii aren't on oposites sides of the planet to my knowledge. Granted i'm not a total map guru

If you take a map on the one side just north of the equator far on the west side of the world you see hawaii, then if you look at the other side really to the east you will see indo, they are pretty far apart.

After your bottoms turn try to snake it alone the wave, and as you pick up speed you can try kicking of the lip or a 180 and come back on yourself to the breaking part of the wave and start again. If that makes any sense. ENJOY

Thanks, I hope it helps me, I geuss I can do that with a little practise.