Surfing Waves

Hi guys

Could do with a bit of help with my new board.

I surfed an 8ft minimal for about 2 1/2 months, did pretty well on it and was catching small unbroken (1-3ft) waves consistently. I had to sell that board on and haven’t been surfing for about 6 weeks now.

I recently bought a new board which is 6'8 x 20 x 2 1/2 and went out on it for the first time today. I just went for broken waves to get used to it. It didn’t go well, lol. I found the nose of the board kept sinking even with my chest raised completely off it and I also wasn’t having much luck with catching broken waves.

Firstly, do you think the board may be too short for me at the moment? Or is it just a case of getting loads of practice in? Also, I’m 5 foot 7 and weigh 12 stone 3 (172lb) so I am slightly over weight and working on losing it. Is it best to lose the weight and see how I improve from there? as I guess excess weight would make the nose sink? Also, should I be trying to catch unbroken waves straight away instead or trying to catch broken?

Thanks in advance, sorry for the long post

im on a 6'6" and i weigh the same as u. on shortboards u cant catch unbroken waves successfully for the most part. u gotta go for actual waves, and usually they have to be at least 2-3 face.

If the nose is sinking the first thing I'd try is moving my weight further back.

You don't sound like you should be too heavy.

I relatively recently took a drop in board size and it's alot harder.

Theres a different technique for catching waves on a shorty rather than a minimal/longboard.

Gotta take the wave later, steeper etc, I'm no exopert there tho sorry, but you've picked quite a change, not just in size but volume and style.

If the nose is sinking you need to...

Move back a touch.

Arch your back as the board starts to move.

Lift your feet out of the water, so there's a little weight through your knees which ought to be more or less at the tail of the board (probably not quite at your height).

Stand up. Quickly.

Oh yeah, and shortboards dont work on broken waves.

Thats great guys, thanks for the help

I never actually thought of just bending my knees to put more weight on the back of the board, obviously on my minimal I could just leave my legs lying down.

I wont be able to move back on the board any further though as my toes are already right on the end of it. The board has a swallow tail so I cant push back quite as far as a squash tail.

I'll stick to unbroken waves as well, lol. I didnt even think until I got home that shortboards are probably not designed for broken waves.

Pooki wrote:I wont be able to move back on the board any further though as my toes are already right on the end of it. The board has a swallow tail so I cant push back quite as far as a squash tail.

I think we may have found the problem....

On a shortboard, your toes will normally be hanging in the water behind the board. Sounds like you're too far forward. 'Toes on the tail' is for longboarders

I ride a 6'3 with a swallow tail and my me knees are on the back of the tail pad, with my shins/ankles/feet out behind the board. Watch some other shortboarders next time you surf and you'll see what I mean.

Ahhh I see, lol, that could help.

Im going to have to ask a stupid questin here though. How on earth do you stand up if your toes aren't resting on the board??

Im gonna go and hide now as im sure the answer is blatantly obvious

When you pop up you should be holding/pushing with your palms and nothing else should be touching the board untill your feet land, in position, where your chest/stomach was.

You dont need your feet or knees touching the board to pop.

Pooki wrote:
Im going to have to ask a stupid questin here though. How on earth do you stand up if your toes aren't resting on the board??

Im gonna go and hide now as im sure the answer is blatantly obvious

I used to think like that lol. Good old kooky days.

When you pop up you should be holding/pushing with your palms and nothing else should be touching the board untill your feet land, in position, where your chest/stomach was.

You dont need your feet or knees touching the board to pop.

Ok, thank you, I'll try this out.

It should be the same popup you did on your mini. Hands on the board and have your front foot swing between and the back foot end up at the back of the board.