Surfing Waves

hey,

as the subjects suggests, its really stupid but i get scared when surfing...ive been surfing just over a year, had a mal then progressed to a shortboard and i got the hang of it really quickly but then when i started to get out back and ride slightly bigger waves, i just tense up and cant make myself go for stuff....so i just sit there...

after spending a summer away from the ocean, ive lost all confidence. but now i get out back, try and make my self go for a wave but i get really scared, thinking about if i dont make the drop etc, i know its just water but i hate getting hit by the larger set wave.

i dont know, this is all kinda stupid ranting on about being scared but i dont know, has anyone else been in this situation or know how to get over it..i know its only water and cant hurt you etc but still, i just cant make myself go for it.....my friend that i surf with always tells me this but it makes no difference to being scared


thanks, and sorry its long!!

What size waves are you surfing? Maybe you should try something smaller...

I went through a stage of fear towards surfing bigger waves. The best thing to do is go out on a smaller day on a bigger board and build up some confidence again. Once you feel the thrill of that, you won't be afraid of surfing larger waves again.
You have to take a step back and then forwards when you get scared.

I'm just starting out. I've been out about a dozen times now. Last time i was out i managed to get passed the break....feeling well chuffed i sat back to have a rest, paddling a 7'6 NSP through 6ft breakers was difficult. Anyway i got pulled up the face of a rouge wave and my stomach looped a good few times. I decided to head back in a little to catch some of the smaller more manageable surf. I caught a biggy, i went straight down the face and got rag-dolled in the wash. My board cracked me in the jaw and left me feeling very dizzy. I managed to get back onto the board.

I think i learnt a valuable lesson - only go out in what i can manage - confidence is something that is built up over time (short or long). I know that after a few more sessions i'll be wanting those 6ft day all the time....i hope

Sorry you 'got the hang of the mal', then moved to shortboard, then your getting out back...???

Just harden up and drop in. Don't ever hesitate, because you won't make the drop if you do. It's not going to kill you, so enjoy the fear, it makes the whole thing more fun.

Once you've got into a few solid waves, you'll be loving it, but the only way to get there is by going for it.

Best thing to get rid of that fear is go snowboarding, where falling over hurts

Falling off in water is easy after that

yeah going snowboarding wouldnt help im afraid....im a freestyle snowboarder so got passed the falling all the time stuff years ago....though when i do fall now its off a huge kicker and it always hurts!! thanks for any help tho, i just need to get confidence from somewhere, anyone selling??

take next time youre out back on a bigger day wait for the realy big sets to come through and just paddle into one and see what happens. if you make it toull love it and never heitate again if you dont youll take a nailing and come up thinking "oh im alive that wasnt so bad"

Hi there, that sounds like quite an ordeal...scared of summat you love! I feel for ya! I can't say I've experienced it since I love those moments when you wipeout and you're being spun about underwater, unsure when you'll surface or even which direction the surface is in!

But...I think Surferdude has hit the nail on the head. Just go out there and deliberately wipeout a load. Perhaps don't even go out with yer board, just swim out and get nailed by lots of waves. You'll be fine and perhaps realise there is nowt to fear. Remember: Your fear is illogical. Mind of matter.

You may, on the other hand be to worried even to do that, so just work yer way up slowly, start surfing at the line up on small days and go fer sessions in bigger and bigger surf.

...J...

sneffy182 wrote:i know its only water and cant hurt you etc but still, i just cant make myself go for it.....my friend that i surf with always tells me this but it makes no difference to being scared

yeah same here! logic usaully doesnt apply to fear! In my experience it was a big wave (well, for me) wipeout that put the fear into me so I found building up slowly the most help. Being out of the water for so long it probably like your brain is doubting your ability so holding you back, I have no ability so to speak but check out the link below (ha! and you thought your post was long oh, im not calling you a wuss btw, just thought the link might be helpful ). You'll get your confidence back before you know it

https://surfing-waves.com/forum/view ... light=wuss

sneffy182 wrote:yeah going snowboarding wouldnt help im afraid....im a freestyle snowboarder so got passed the falling all the time stuff years ago....though when i do fall now its off a huge kicker and it always hurts!! thanks for any help tho, i just need to get confidence from somewhere, anyone selling??

Seriously, huge kickers are way scarier than solid waves. Stop worrying and just take off on a few

I still have the same probalem sometimes, its just getting over the fear of what might happen.

People have probably said this beofre, but if you think your going to make it, the chances are that you probably will.

And secondly, dont look back when your getting the wave, if you see how big it really is, your more likely to pull out of it. Friend told me that and it worked for her.

I actually have a solid fear of drowning but hey that doesnt stop me charging the biggest San Diego can throw. Just suck it up and take the drops. Best bet is to try surfing some mellow big waves (if that makes sense) rather than attacking board snapping pits

thanks everyone for just, everything, theres no surf here at the mo, all damn onshores but definatley have to try harder and stop getting so scared of water!!

i'm with scuba steve...
sometimes you've gotta take a few steps back before making a running leap.
Good Luck!