Surfing Waves

G'day Guys

I have been making real progress lately since my ribs healed up, but have suddenly hit a what I hope is a small problem. I have searched the forum but can't quite find a specific answer to my problem.

I have been starting to catch green waves and riding better and longer but I tend to be sinking the nose whilst riding. Now I am only 5'8, 12 1/2 stone and am riding a 6'8' bigfish, 21 inches wide and 2 5/8's thick. (lots of hard work learning on but I am finally getting there)

I suspect it's foot placement or weight dispersal, but am struggling to adjust once up.

Any Tips/advice to help aleviate this problem. Would a rear pad help? I find it difficult to asses how far back my rear foot actually is.

Tenaciousgreen wrote:I suspect it's foot placement or weight dispersal, but am struggling to adjust once up.

Yup, you've identified the problem. Or at least part of it.
The other half is speed.

I struggle with this sometimes if Ive not surfed for a while - my 'natural' weight bias is on the front foot and I have to consciously shift it backwards (either the weight, or the actual position).

One thing Ive found that helps getting the position right is to shunt the board forward as you pop up, so its moving quite fast and (probably more importantly) shifts your feet back by a few inches as you land on the board.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go!

Also, remember the wave isn't just going to push you along forever - you WILL slow down and stop if you don't put some effort into generating speed by moving up and down the face of the wave.