Surfing Waves

Hey everyone, I've wanted to learn to surf for a long time, and I'm planning on finally doing it in a few days with a friend. I'm looking forward to it, I just have a couple questions to help me prepare and be successful at learning.

1. What would be the best size board for me to start out on? I've asked several people, and the consensus seems to be a longboard from 7-8 feet long, my friend says he has a funboard I can learn on, but I've heard from some people that funboards are not good to learn on, and some others say you can learn on them. I'm 24 yrs old and about 5-foot-7 and really skinny, if that helps any. It seems like anything 8-feet or longer would be too hard for me to carry around and paddle on.

2. About how many sessions does it usually take to get the hang of the basics (i.e. paddling, duck-diving, and popping up/catching waves)? I don't care about being good right now, I just want to be good enough at the basics so that I can buy my own board and go out there myself and enjoy it. I already skateboard, how much does that help?

3. What precautions should I take so that I don't get hurt when falling off the surfboard? I broke my hand skating a few months ago, it's fully healed, but I want to make sure I don't reinjure it, and it would kinda suck if I hit my head on the board or anything else like that.

personally, i'd recommend you start on a fat boy flyer, it's really good at catching waves & now having had a shot of a friends i wish that's the board i'd started on! A few folk maybe wouldn't agree with me, but if you want to eventually move to a shortboard i'd recommend starting on 1 of these, about 7 foot long! There's only so much fun to be had on a longer board but the fat boy flyers are wave catching machines & you should advance reasonably fast on one of them!

You could be standing up on your 1st session, but it can take 2 to 3 months to really get to grips with the boards.
Only precautions i'd say is just to understand the place you surf, whether it's rocks or sand underneath you etc...common sense!

Your post is almost identical to posts we get on about a weekly basis. A tad annoying since there are two threads at the top of this section of the forum relating to starting surfing and first boards/what to learn on. I suggest you check there since not many people will reply to such a post (above reasons). I may as well give my two cents now that you've posted.

1. It sounds like you're planning on going straight out and buying a board. Don't!. I think almost everyone on this forum would agree that renting at least for your first few sessions is a must. If for no other reason it will allow you to decide whether you actually like the sport! Not everyone does you know? (Weirdos) Also, it will allow you to ride something that you won't want to own in the long run. I would suggest renting a foam board to start- A Swell most likely. These are big and seriously bouyant boards, but are fairly light compared to something like a soft-top. I think all your initial sessions should be done on these, they are so forgiving, you only need to lie in front of a broken wave on one and you'll catch it. This will give you a feel for the sport and give essential practice in popping up and balance. After that I would probably advise renting (pop-out) longboard or mini-mal; if you rented both it would give you an idea perhaps of what you think you might want to buy.

2. It all depends on you. I would say anywhere between a few days to 2 weeks renting a Swelly. Oh, you won't be duck-diving initially, longboards, (to an extent) mini-mals and foamies are near impossible to duckdive. Skateboarding, i'm sure it might help your balance a little, but it will do nothing for positioning and timing in the water (which some folk really struggle with at first) and popping-up, both of which are harder than the balance need to stay upright once up.

3. None. (IMO) You're landing in water, and unless you're taking on some heavy waves, which you shouldn't, there should be no problem. Obviously you ought to be half decent swimmer but that has nowt to do with injuring yerself. If you're learning on a foam board even if the board were to hit you full on in the face it would barely hurt.

There's only so much fun to be had on a longer board

Some people surf nothing but long boards, it's different to riding a shortboard but arguably as challenging (to get good) and rewarding. Great for a first board and a valuable part of a quiver (wish I had one!). Flyers are essentially large shortboards, i'd say the shape is not ideal for a begginner really.

Johnny B is on target. It would do you well to listen to the wisdom.

alimac2411 wrote: There's only so much fun to be had on a longer board

Wow what a statement. Two different animals and two totally different ways they are ridden (longboard & shortboard).

justloafing wrote:

alimac2411 wrote: There's only so much fun to be had on a longer board

Wow what a statement. Two different animals and two totally different ways they are ridden (longboard & shortboard).

Don't mean to offend, just from my experience i have a lot more fun on the shorter boards!

Most of what Johnny B said is about right, but this bit...

Johnny B wrote:3. None. (IMO) You're landing in water, and unless you're taking on some heavy waves, which you shouldn't, there should be no problem. Obviously you ought to be half decent swimmer but that has nowt to do with injuring yerself. If you're learning on a foam board even if the board were to hit you full on in the face it would barely hurt.

....isnt.

A board in the face, even a foamie, will hurt. A lot.
An important thing to keep in mind is to never put the board between yourself and a wave (ie when you're standing/floating in the water). If a wave is going to hit you, make sure you have a good hold on the board and that it is to the side (or behind) you.

Also, when you fall off, come out of the water covering your head as the board could be flying about anywhere particularly when its windy. Or somebody elses board.

A big one for injuring yourself when learning is falling off in shallow water. Try to be aware of what depth you're in, your foamy will take you into a few inches of water, so when you fall off try not to extend your arms straight - they'll just slam into the seabed with all your weight on top of it *snap*

Finally, the biggest thing when you're learning (or even when you're expert) is to be aware of whats around you. Dont get so caught up in paddling for a wave that you fail to notice that someones already on the wave, or that you're heading for a rock.

Common sense basically and above all, keep your eyes on whats going on around you.

Oh, and fins are sharp. Avoid them.

Shh! Don't scare the lad!

But aye, yer right. It's all common sense though.

alimac2411 wrote:

Don't mean to offend, just from my experience i have a lot more fun on the shorter boards!

No offense taken. There is a ton of things to do on a long board that are very challenging. Yep shortboards look like fun(I have never ridden one). I have been surfing for a year and do ride a longboard but I love watching a good shortboarder going at it. If I ever get at least halfway descent on a longboard I would love to try a shorter board.

That is the reason I said what I did about being 2 different animals. To me there is nothing like trying to walk the board and I hope to get my toes hanging over the nose one day. We wont even talk about hanging heels

drowningbitbybit wrote:Also, when you fall off, come out of the water covering your head as the board could be flying about anywhere particularly when its windy. Or somebody elses board.

that reminds me of one time in perranporth i could see the board up in the air while i was underwater. head in hands is the best way to come up although anyone still actually do it?

justloafing wrote:

alimac2411 wrote:

Don't mean to offend, just from my experience i have a lot more fun on the shorter boards!

No offense taken. There is a ton of things to do on a long board that are very challenging. Yep shortboards look like fun(I have never ridden one). I have been surfing for a year and do ride a longboard but I love watching a good shortboarder going at it. If I ever get at least halfway descent on a longboard I would love to try a shorter board.

That is the reason I said what I did about being 2 different animals. To me there is nothing like trying to walk the board and I hope to get my toes hanging over the nose one day. We wont even talk about hanging heels

No worries, yeah you're right, 2 totally different things! I take back my initial statement, no matter how you surf, it's class, just getting out in the water in anything from the smallest waves to bigger waves, keeps me happy!