yeah you just need to get as deep as you can and get under them, some waves however are just mean and determined to get you (those big hollow ones that break right on your head) and once in a while you are gonna get a beating, main thing is to hold on as best you can and keep control of your board, even if you end up spun upside down or facing the wrong way, in a crowded lineup others will thank you for not letting go of your board (or rather they wont thank you if you do)
Sillysausage wrote:also make sure you're in water deep enough so that you don't hit the board in the bottom
sometimes thats the only way, in france this summer there was a day when the shorebreak was breaking almost head high into about three feet of water, the only way to get past it was to duckdive down, lay flat on the board on the sand at the bottom, pray, and just wait for the wave to pass before coming back up. needless to say there was lots of people on hired boards getting trashed all over the beach
