Still in poo stance?

[pmcaero]

nice video.
Here are my attempts today lol. (had a couple better rids but didn't get them on camera) I'm on the right .

http://imgur.com/a/xWrfK

[oldmansurfer]

I like the top wave better than the lower one. In the lower one you just went into the flats and lost speed. In the upper one you made it down the line a little but if you notice the other surfers are taking off down from you most likely for a reason like it is difficult to make it past the section they are taking off at. Do you have a lineup or shoreline structures you line up to to make sure you are in the right place?

[RinkyDink]

Here are my attempts today http://imgur.com/a/xWrfK

What are you attempting to do again? What would you have done on either of those waves that would have made you feel like you had made progress? On the top wave, where the other guy drops in on you, it looks like you pulled off a slight bottom turn in the trough of the wave. Isn't that what you were trying to do? On the bottom wave you simply looked straight ahead and that's the direction you went in. I'm not sure why you didn't look right and attempt to go that way. Why not try an angled takeoff and surf down the line? Why not try a 360 at the end of the wave?

[dtc]

Stance looked better in the bottom one - top one you did a turn (good!) but then hung your arms out in front of you again. Bottom you were more chest on, although your arms were a bit tied to your side.

However, you do seem to be leaning back a bit - see the nose of the board rise up, the tail bogging and slowing you down. This is actually purely natural - your body is going 'what do you mean, you want me to lean down the face, I want to be horizontal'. So you lean back, against the slope. But you have to fight instinct - think of a ski slope (have you skied?). You don't lean back up the hill, you lean forward down the hill. Skate board the same - if you lean back up the hill, the board just flies out from under your feet. On a slow/small wave you want to lean forward, extra weight on the front boot, until it comes time to turn - you have to think 'get me down this slope as fast as possible, lean forward'

But I will say that sometimes any surfer just gets off balance, its hard to say from just 2 waves whether we happen to see the two you were off balance or its a habit. But keep it in mind - its also (I think) relevant to the stance issue, if you are weighting the back foot too much then it can be hard to keep head aligned etc.

As the others have mentioned, your positioning on the wave wasn't great, but that can happen over a session, sometimes you are in the wrong place if the peak is shifty. Pop up looks good.

Keep it going - this will be you in a few weeks - notice how her head is centred right over her feet (along the 'line of gravity'), looking forward, eyes horizontal (you cant tell much re arms from a single photo)

gisele-bundchen-tom-brady-vacation-photos94-480w.jpg (57.43 KiB) Viewed 732 times

[pmcaero]

I actually had two good backside rides (not shown) where I stayed on the top part of the wave and only needed to do minor trimming. For some reason I am able to angle my take-off much better on the backside, the moment when I arch and look and right after set the board to go down the line. Maybe it's because I stay lower, or the way I grab the board....somehow I can set the rail backside.
Frontside, for some reason, I find it hard to get the line and many times I end up in the flats where the bottom turn can't save me.

[pmcaero]

Why not try a 360 at the end of the wave?

Not quite a 360 today, but the last wave of the sesh, as it was getting too deep, I got a nice pronounced right turn on the flats just as another section broke on me, the wall of water looked really cool

[drowningbitbybit]

For some reason I am able to angle my take-off much better on the backside, the moment when I arch and look and right after set the board to go down the line. Maybe it's because I stay lower, or the way I grab the board....somehow I can set the rail backside.

Easier answer to this, and it tells you a lot about what you need to be doing... on your backhand, you'll turn your shoulders more, your arm is pulled back further (towards the wave face), and your weight has naturally gone onto the front foot and the inside rail... which is exactly what you need to be doing

So, on your frontside, do the same - turn into the face more, get your weight on the inside rail. The whole 'look where you want to go, point with leading hand' thing will mimic the effect of going backhand.

[pmcaero]

So, on your frontside, do the same - turn into the face more, get your weight on the inside rail. The whole 'look where you want to go, point with leading hand' thing will mimic the effect of going backhand.

I'll give it a shot next time.
Thanks

[pmcaero]

. But you have to fight instinct - think of a ski slope (have you skied?). You don't lean back up the hill, you lean forward down the hill. Skate board the same - if you lean back up the hill, the board just flies out from under your feet. On a slow/small wave you want to lean forward, extra weight on the front boot, until it comes time to turn - you have to think 'get me down this slope as fast as possible, lean forward'

Keep it going - this will be you in a few weeks - notice how her head is centred right over her feet (along the 'line of gravity'), looking forward, eyes horizontal (you cant tell much re arms from a single photo)

Yeah I will have to somehow train myself . I practice pop-ups on a surfboard shape, but it's not the same thing.
Gisele is way better at surfing than Brady, isn't she....

[RinkyDink]

I actually had two good backside rides (not shown) where I stayed on the top part of the wave and only needed to do minor trimming. For some reason I am able to angle my take-off much better on the backside, the moment when I arch and look and right after set the board to go down the line. Maybe it's because I stay lower, or the way I grab the board....somehow I can set the rail backside.
Frontside, for some reason, I find it hard to get the line and many times I end up in the flats where the bottom turn can't save me.

When I first started surfing again I noticed that I favored going backside too. In fact I had to consciously take off frontside just so I could see what it was like. Anyway, you refer to the top part of the wave a lot and I think I understand why the "top part" of the wave is appealing to you. I noticed it when I looked at the wave in your vid where you're getting dropped in on. You must be looking at those guys at your break and wondering how they glide along the middle of the wave while you are stalling out in the bottom part of the wave. In my opinion, it's the angle of your takeoff. You're pointing the nose of your board directly in front of you towards the beach when you take off. The guy next to you in your video is pointing the nose of his board in the direction of the wave face he wants to surf along. Look at this video and ask yourself where the nose of this guy's board is pointing?

Is it pointing straight ahead or along the face of the wave? Now look at your vids and analyze the angle of your takeoff. Anyway, my point is that if you want longer rides on the waves at your break, then you need to take off at an angle.

[Big H]

You must be looking at those guys at your break and wondering how they glide along the middle of the wave while you are stalling out in the bottom part of the wave. In my opinion, it's the angle of your takeoff. You're pointing the nose of your board directly in front of you towards the beach when you take off. The guy next to you in your video is pointing the nose of his board in the direction of the wave face he wants to surf along. Look at this video and ask yourself where the nose of this guy's board is pointing?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9AkLblhihc
Is it pointing straight ahead or along the face of the wave? Now look at your vids and analyze the angle of your takeoff. Anyway, my point is that if you want longer rides on the waves at your break, then you need to take off at an angle.

Here's one that is point of view of paddling in at an angle....shown slo mo then faster:

[pmcaero]

I'm trying to get the energy management right. Maybe I am getting overly analytical, but I like understanding the physics of processes, my mind works that way and it will help me remember to do the right moves in the heat of the moment.

I have seen three ways of getting the board to go at an angle to ensure it stays in the pocket:

Number one is simply paddling at an angle,
Number two is popping up looking down the line and sort of weighing the rail and turning the board.
Number three is the bottom turn.

Two and three can only use energy already existing in your board (potential, such as height above the trough and mechanical, such as speed) by changing the direction of motion to going down the line.
Method one would actually give you energy in the desired direction.

So on smaller waves, method one is quite important, and that is the one I forgot to apply in many cases, remaining stuck behind the wave.

[Big H]

It is different....some waves that are fast you need to paddle straight and turn as you stand otherwise you get rolled right off the bat......others you can see the alley (like the video) and can paddle straight in on an angle....there are waves that you can paddle on a slimmer angle then turn, pop up then make a quick few pumps, turning up the face on get up and staying high then shoot down for a bottom turn once the wave steepens and is breaking, or paddle straight on a fat wave because you need all the push you can get then once planing, hold the arch and bodyboard style steer to pointing down the line then stand.....depends on the shape of the wave and what is happening on the wave..........main thing is to keep your head up, get your timing right so that you stand at the crest and not in the trough, look where you want to go.......then it's just practice and sorting it out....you'll get faster, your timing will get better, both of which will give you more time and drive to make the right moves.

W-chan said it before....just roll down the street....on those waves and with that 7'9" paddle a a slight angle and stand up looking down the wave then point to where you want to go with that leading hand.....everything will take care of itself....looking down the wave weights the inside rail on get up, first with your hand then your body and the board will turn and go there.....don't worry about A, B & C....just paddle straightish with a small angle in the direction you want to go with the last couple of strokes then go there.....get so you can do that easily then play with angles and the rest if you must.

This is a good video on the subject....

[pmcaero]

W-chan said it before....just roll down the street....on those waves and with that 7'9" paddle a a slight angle and stand up looking down the wave then point to where you want to go with that leading hand.....everything will take care of itself...

Can't wait to go back in the water and make it all work. This is the year I'm moving to the intermediate stage I just need 10 more days like yesterday haha , just the right amount of challenge (windy) on an otherwise clean day.

[jaffa1949]

I'm trying to get the energy management right. Maybe I am getting overly analytical.

I have seen three ways of getting the board to go at an angle to ensure it stays in the pocket:

Number one is simply paddling at an angle,
Number two is popping up looking down the line and sort of weighing the rail and turning the board.
Number three is the bottom turn.

Two and three can only use energy already existing in your board (potential, such as height above the trough and mechanical, such as speed) by changing the direction of motion to going down the line.
Method one would actually give you energy in the desired I forgot to apply in many cases, remaining stuck behind the wave.

Make a really big effort to leave your mind on the beach, bury it somewhere in the sand. Pick it up when you have finished!

The wave determine what you can do every video you post shows that dreadful hindering stance, the failure to angle anywhere enough to get to the face, by the time you have organised yourself the wave is just sending you straight to the beach, none of the days on which you surf present any reall difficulty of getting out.
The last few posts show a wave that you could ride across the face, you just sort of lean turn and poo away from the face, other guys succeed without any physics or quantum theory, ffs just go stand tall and set your angle as you paddle, forget anything else. Get the angle ride the face, use your bigger board. No more excuses!

[Big H]

I'm trying to get the energy management right. Maybe I am getting overly analytical.

I have seen three ways of getting the board to go at an angle to ensure it stays in the pocket:

Number one is simply paddling at an angle,
Number two is popping up looking down the line and sort of weighing the rail and turning the board.
Number three is the bottom turn.

Two and three can only use energy already existing in your board (potential, such as height above the trough and mechanical, such as speed) by changing the direction of motion to going down the line.
Method one would actually give you energy in the desired I forgot to apply in many cases, remaining stuck behind the wave.

Make a really big effort to leave your mind on the beach, bury it somewhere in the sand. Pick it up when you have finished!

The wave determine what you can do every video you post shows that dreadful hindering stance, the failure to angle anywhere enough to get to the face, by the time you have organised yourself the wave is just sending you straight to the beach, none of the days on which you surf present any reall difficulty of getting out.
The last few posts show a wave that you could ride across the face, you just sort of lean turn and poo away from the face, other guys succeed without any physics or quantum theory, ffs just go stand tall and set your angle as you paddle, forget anything else. Get the angle ride the face, use your bigger board. No more excuses!

The straight poo....

Push harder....as much as you think about this, PUSH yourself in the water....look for where the wave breaks, foam left over in the water and go sit at the apex....get slammed, fail, stand up too early, pearl....but push yourself otherwise you'll be stuck exactly where you are.

[RinkyDink]

Can't wait to go back in the water and make it all work. This is the year I'm moving to the intermediate stage I just need 10 more days like yesterday haha , just the right amount of challenge (windy) on an otherwise clean day.

I think you're going to have a breakthrough. You have the strength and all the skills to get a good ride so now you just need the ocean to let you get to third base with her. Have fun.

[pmcaero]

I had some good rides today, front and backside, But didn't get them on camera. I got this one though, can you please volunteer more feedback, it has been most helpful so far. For instance, could have I extended the ride?

[jaffa1949]

Yes. A little but the problem is partly poo stance, largely poo surf!

[RinkyDink]

I had some good rides today, front and backside, But didn't get them on camera. I got this one though, can you please volunteer more feedback, it has been most helpful so far. For instance, could have I extended the ride?

I think that's the best ride I've seen in your posts and on your blog. You're traveling along the wave face and it looks like you know how to get yourself in that position. Congrats! I doubt you could have extended that ride much. It's not possible to see what kind of momentum you had getting into that wave from your takeoff paddle. The way I get longer rides is to take off on bigger waves. I've the had the luxury though of consistent head high El Nino waves out here in California. The surf has been incredible this winter in California. If you want to try to generate more speed, then I'd recommend you experiment with your board positioning. Move your back foot forward on the board. Remember that when most of your weight is shifted onto your back foot over the fins, then you will raise the front of the board up which slows you down. If the nose of your board is pushed upward, then the center of your board is pushing against the water like a snow plow /------ instead of planing along the top of the water.