by gsseirik » Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:54 am
Where I live we have many kilometers of empty beachbreaks compared to the amount of surfers. It still gets crowded on the pointbreaks every time we have swell with a decent period. The pointbreaks are very easy to check from the car, and its very easy to paddle out, and you can sit just beside the peak and chill. I guess a person that have never seen a surfboard could paddle out there without any trouble. Me and my friends surfed a lot of the messy beachbreaks, because on the pointbreaks the more experienced surfers would take all the best waves, and I always just sat very passive on the sideline and didnt really know where I needed to be in order to take-off. I've had a fair amount of sessions lasting for about 2-3 hours, and scoring maby 1 really nice wave. I probably could have caught 10-20 crappy waves on the beachbreak in that amount of time, and time on the board is the most important thing. If you wanna learn how to skateboard, you wont learn a lot sitting on your skateboard the most of the time. My experience is that surfing messy waves and beachbreaks teaches you valuable knowledge on how to read waves, which ones to pick, how to paddle out in tough conditions and gives you paddlestrenght/stamina. Im not shure if this is relatable to your homebreaks. I have been to Portugal and Peniche a couple of times between october- march, and there is a lot of people on every peak on the beachbreaks, but still enough waves for everybody.