Realistic goals

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Re: Realistic goals

Postby RinkyDink » Sat Aug 19, 2017 5:49 pm

Silvery wrote:2. Paddle hard with the three extra. Check

I have read different guides for paddling to catch a wave (5 hard strokes then popup, etc.), but I suggest the best way to think about catching a wave, all no-paddle takeoffs aside, is to work on matching the speed of the wave you want to catch. If I were going to teach someone to surf, I would have them paddle alongside me for the same wave. It might even be worthwhile for new surfers to paddle way past the impact zone and then work on racing the waves out back to the impact zone. I have never tried to paddle in front of a wave to see if I could always stay in front of it as it approached the impact zone, but that would probably be a good way to develop an understanding of the kind of paddle speed you need to get into waves.
RinkyDink
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1370
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:58 pm

Re: Realistic goals

Postby dtc » Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:52 am

a potentially useful way to think about catching waves is that its partly the paddling and partly the gravity. In fact, most of the time you are paddling to a spot that allows you to use gravity to get you down the face of the wave - thats what actually allows you to catch the wave (ie you going down the slope). There are some exceptions sort of - like when you hold the cobra pose just waiting for the wave to steepen enough to pop up; but again even here you are waiting until you are in the place that allows you to use gravity to catch the wave (you just dont have to paddle the whole time)

In any case, the 'extra paddles' concept is really 'dont stop when you think you have caught the wave, because you actually need to be heading down the wave to use gravity'
dtc
Surf God
 
Posts: 3833
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon May 21, 2012 4:58 am

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Big H » Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:17 am

dtc wrote:a potentially useful way to think about catching waves is that its partly the paddling and partly the gravity. In fact, most of the time you are paddling to a spot that allows you to use gravity to get you down the face of the wave - thats what actually allows you to catch the wave (ie you going down the slope). There are some exceptions sort of - like when you hold the cobra pose just waiting for the wave to steepen enough to pop up; but again even here you are waiting until you are in the place that allows you to use gravity to catch the wave (you just dont have to paddle the whole time)

In any case, the 'extra paddles' concept is really 'dont stop when you think you have caught the wave, because you actually need to be heading down the wave to use gravity'

Never did like the extra paddles concept....was better for my own process to learn to catch waves, then remember the feeling of when you are "in" then stop paddling when you get that feeling.....not really a easy concept to pass along to raw neginners though.
User avatar
Big H
Surf God
 
Posts: 3408
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2015 5:40 pm
Location: Bali

Re: Realistic goals

Postby waikikikichan » Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:03 am

5 hard strokes then popup, 3 extra , blah blah is all robotic dance steps. You need to always adapt to the situation as every wave is different.
The biggest problem is that beginners stand up too early, so I tell them "CATCH the wave FIRST,...... Then stand up."
But approach paddling and catching a wave like trying to pick up a girl at the bar. If she's running away from you, you've already lost your chance. If your normal pick up line ( paddle ) isn't working, switching up things up ( trying to paddle harder ) ain't going to work on her ( or the wave ). You got ONE chance to make a first impression.
User avatar
waikikikichan
Surf God
 
Posts: 4783
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:35 pm
Location: Tokyo, Japan

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Tudeo » Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:58 am

dtc wrote:a potentially useful way to think about catching waves is that its partly the paddling and partly the gravity.

Exactly! I try to time it so the wave hits me with the right angle. Even from a standstill I then can get in with 1 or 2 strokes only. With help of gravity u can really grab and hold on to the water and pull ur board in the wave.
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
User avatar
Tudeo
SW Pro
 
Posts: 838
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri May 08, 2015 6:52 am
Location: Bali

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Oldie » Sun Aug 20, 2017 1:01 pm

Tudeo wrote:
dtc wrote:a potentially useful way to think about catching waves is that its partly the paddling and partly the gravity.

Exactly! I try to time it so the wave hits me with the right angle. Even from a standstill I then can get in with 1 or 2 strokes only. With help of gravity u can really grab and hold on to the water and pull ur board in the wave.


Yes! That made so much of a difference for me. When you start in the white water, you are used to being pushed forward by the broken wave, and at first I did not understand that this is not happening at all in unbroken waves. Understanding the concept of paddling downhill with the help of gravity and getting to feel it made such a difference to my wave catching success. I like the surf simply film about it, I think it has been linked here quite often already, but anyway:

User avatar
Oldie
Local Hero
 
Posts: 470
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:44 pm
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Tudeo » Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:43 am

Also, when you've got the feel for the right angle, u can just stop paddling when the wave reaches you and the angle for gravity didn't build up the way you thought it would. No more useless paddle sprints! Well, not so many anymore..
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
User avatar
Tudeo
SW Pro
 
Posts: 838
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri May 08, 2015 6:52 am
Location: Bali

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:32 am

Thanks all again for the input, I was watching a guy's take off for an hour at guethary yesterday and thinking about the gravity posts It makes sense.
I foolishly tried a six foot ish wave at tones the other day and pearled badly that knocked the wind out of me then when I got to the surface got a another on the head straight away, shook me up a bit.
Off to bidart in a while, looks more suitable there.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Thu Aug 24, 2017 5:20 pm

Went to guethary south bay as bidart was flat. Felt like I was getting it until cut my big toe on rocks submerged just under.
Moved to the vendee and went out at brem s/mer yesterday mid to high pushing tide and got nowhere, went same place today on a mid to low gentle off shore three ft and got my first green wave :D then another, ended up with five.
So what I did different, few gentle strokes to get in position, looking back at the wave, feeling the tail lifting then putting in a few hard paddles and popping up soon as I was in,used to leave it far too long before.
Thanks all of you for those posts that really made my green day today.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Fri Oct 13, 2017 3:15 pm

I'm off to North Devon tomorrow for a couple of weeks so hopefully can continue where I left off.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Thu Oct 19, 2017 8:54 pm

Didn't get in till Tuesday day after the tail end of the storm, relentless white water coming in so just practised on white water and reforms.
Wednesday late afternoon gentle off shore high tide lovely peeling walls 2/4 ft absolutely ferfect for me.
Today same spot /time, same peeling walls but howling cross shore, I cound't really handle it the same as yesterday but still enjoyed it
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:58 pm

Had a three hour session and two hour session on thursday and Friday, both on gentle peeling 2 ft walls, caught quite a few green waves but no real progress trying to turn though thinking about it the answer waikiki gave in a thread on the surfboard topics about engagement of the back foot over the fins would help.
I except I'm never going to 'rip' with the limited water time I get but having a great time when I get out.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:29 pm

Early days, but your last sentence covers it, the more you love surfing , each surf is its own reward, often just one “special wave” :D
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
User avatar
jaffa1949
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 8179
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:01 am
Location: The super secret point breaks of Ober Österreich ( how many will notice the change)

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:18 pm

Back from another couple of weeks in North Devon and got my first and one and only ride across the green on a 2/3 ft wave, so smooth and magical to anything I've had previously, I really can't explain how I managed it though :shock:
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:47 pm

I gave France a miss this year with the crap pound and brexit stuff so had 6 weeks in Devon and Cornwall. Managed to get across the face of the wave in 2 to 3 foot anything larger I seem to struggle. Seems like small progress but when I look back to when I started 3 years ago I can definitely see the slow progress. Roll on 5 weeks time for my next session.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:59 pm

Nice to see your return and progress :D
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
User avatar
jaffa1949
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 8179
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:01 am
Location: The super secret point breaks of Ober Österreich ( how many will notice the change)

Re: Realistic goals

Postby BaNZ » Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:04 pm

Silvery wrote:I gave France a miss this year with the crap pound and brexit stuff so had 6 weeks in Devon and Cornwall. Managed to get across the face of the wave in 2 to 3 foot anything larger I seem to struggle. Seems like small progress but when I look back to when I started 3 years ago I can definitely see the slow progress. Roll on 5 weeks time for my next session.


If you're in East midlands and close to Cromer, you should try surf there. It can be really good a few times of the year. Beats driving to Devon/Cornwall. I used to surf Cromer a lot.
BaNZ
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1418
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2013 3:15 pm

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:37 pm

Cromer is a three hour drive woolacombe four and half so going for a couple of weeks it makes sense to go to North Devon for the consistency of the waves. A long weekend at Cromer would be a change if I could time it with being able to get away when it's on.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

Re: Realistic goals

Postby steveylang » Mon Sep 30, 2019 3:22 am

I think you should really only focus on the next immediate goal and enjoy that process, rather than giving yourself a deadline or expectations for stuff that's further down the road. So your current goal of consistently catching and riding green waves is a great one, regardless of how long or how short it takes. Achieving that goal is what's going to help you get ready for what's next after that, but only when you are consistently catching and riding green waves.

Saying you also want to do cutbacks or vertical snaps or whatever isn't really going to make it faster IMO, and only emphasizes the things you can't do in the water right now, when you can focus on and enjoy the things you can do, and the next immediate steps that are currently just beyond your grasp.

And then post here when you feel you are stuck with anything in your surfing...
“The best time of my life was when I was a young man, surfing at Malibu.”
–J.Paul Getty
User avatar
steveylang
Local Hero
 
Posts: 205
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 7:20 pm

Re: Realistic goals

Postby Silvery » Wed Oct 02, 2019 7:08 pm

Yes indeed. Good advice, just getting into riding across the face now something to be honest is a goal I thought was probably beyond me a year or two ago. Small steps big fun.
User avatar
Silvery
Surfer
 
Posts: 92
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:48 am
Location: East Midlands England

PreviousNext

Similar topics

Surfing Goals?
RELATED: Surf Chat
Author: BoMan
Replies: 7
realistic progress?
RELATED: Surfing Lessons For All
Author: iomarti
Replies: 30
Return to Surfing Lessons For All