Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Re: Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Postby dtc » Mon Mar 07, 2016 4:55 am

Staying low itself isn't the outcome; rather staying low after your pop up means your stance and balance are much better - ie its an easy way to overcome technical problems (poo stance etc) without having your brain focusing on the technical problems instead of on the wave.

As an experiment: on land crouch down low so your back hand touches the ground, feet like they are on a surfboard, looking forwards. Notice how your head will be centred over your body and you are bending at the knees, hips are low. You are probably quite stable. Now stand up - you probably will (should!) go straight up ie not leaning forward then back or anything. Your weight stays pretty evenly balanced across the heel and toe. This is goodness!

Now (on land again) stand tall and then move so your head drops about 1.5ft from normal. How do you do this - do you bend at the waist and your head goes forward? How stable do you feel? This is badness!

In any case, by staying low after the pop up you put your body and your balance in a much better position, then you rise up (and go back down) as you need to - and you need to go up when you need to turn. Whereas if you start off high you tend to go lower by bending at the waist, head goes forward, butt goes back to balance, its all not very aesthetically pleasing (let alone effective)

As waikikichan says, pop up and turning are different actions. But get the pop up right and the next stage flows easier.

Of course, you can 'pig dog' along the face of the wave staying low the whole time if that is appropriate. 8)
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Re: Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Postby pmcaero » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:17 am

I've read about loading and unloading the board during turns, is that related to getting low or high?

When I get really low on my carving skateboard, I can make very short radius turns (conservation of angular momentum plays a part too, I think), but I think this is where the carver simulation of a surfboard breaks down.
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Re: Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Postby dtc » Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:18 am

Loading is where you push your legs out and push the board into the water. Rather than you deciding to stand tall on the board. So you often do get higher as you do it, but its about the board rather than your head. For example, pop up, low, go down the wave to bottom turn - you need to push the board (rail) into the water to get that turn and you do this by straightening your legs and pushing.

Unloading is where you bend your knees to take weight off the board, so it may just be bending the knees (like going over a bump on the snow) - your head might not even move. Bottom turn done, go up the wave - you don't need to pressure the board, you bend your knees as you go up the wave (but your head may stay at the same 'height' - you are going up a hill and bending your knees)
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Re: Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Postby Big H » Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:29 am

It just kinda happens...have to feel it and flow with it.....furthering the snow analogy, it would be like having a discussion about loading and unloading when skiing moguls....gravity & g forces let you know and flow into it and then out again when you lighten up coming out of a turn transitioning to the next....s turns in your car, you "load" going into corners and unload coming out, maximising the inertia generated by picking the best line, well timed braking and accelerating....

Check this out....I was looking up stuff on my new board and came across this video....this is an average surfer on average waves....watch what he does; this video has a lot more in common with what an average surfer aspires to do on average waves than the Quiksilver and Billabong and other shredding Pro videos in the best waves in the best conditions found around the world..............watch how he rides the wave.

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Re: Please critique my (crappy) performance - part 3

Postby pmcaero » Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:04 pm

yeah, being able to exercise this kind of control over the board and my speed would be nice :)
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