Help Making the Drop

[trifish]

haha, you like those awesome PS Skills .

Glad it helps, I figured a picture would save me from typing.

[coldhands]

Unrelated really, but to this day when the sun is setting and the waves are a decent size. I still get freaked when it's sunny out, the wave comes up behind me, and then it goes dark. This is due to the sun being low, and the wave blocking it, creating a massive shadow.

Get's me every time!

[broseph619]

i swear, today i thought i was gonna catch my first nice sized wave.
i just went balls to the wall.
right before the wave hit me, it looked perfect.
even while i was paddling, it looked amazing.

then, once i pop up, i realize i am headed STRAIGHT down. the worst pearl of my life.


im still determined to get it though. every good wave i catch, it just gives me the best feeling ever.
i can be out for the whole day, pearl a ton, or not catch hardly anything, but if i just get 2 or 3 good waves, it really makes all the difference for me.

[phillwilson]

I feel your pain / stoke broseph619 ,

This weekend yeilded my first ride in what I would class as "big" conditions.

its a step I was never sure I would make... as a longboarder it wasnt a "neccicary" one, I am stillat my happiest on a clean foot or so.... but finally nailing this made me WOOOOT our loud and want to go straight back out there through all the nast incomng wave dumps to do it again!! its fast and thrilling and once you are stood and turned your in control...only more so.

I found that the sheer amount of enery that is in a decent size wave, as opposed to my nice easy rollers.. means that you are in a differant kind of control..kinda like in tennis where a slow lob shot overhead can win your game but a power shot straight to ground is accurate and hard ot beat... i dunno if that makes sense but its very "reactive"

so anyways after that first thrill and with all the previous nasty wipeouts erased form my mind, i went on to get two more really nice rides (one which saw me bouncing all over the place with a big daft grin on my face)

sooo ADVICE ... from a newbie for what its worth...but with it fresh to mind,

1. commit !! all the nasty stuff thats appened to me on these size waves are when i have gone into the situation without a clear intention to mark my wave and make it mine, im not a bravado kinda guy and this seemed a little alien but you HAVE to convince yourself that you are gonna nail it (wow aggression sneaking into my mellow longboardy lexicon)

2.get up early....these waves carry a ton more power then the lil ones and as such they will hold you in place as soon as you start rollin... i try to picture at what point on a same shape hill i would be able to stop kicking off my skateboard and ride, ie it dosnt have to be THAT steep

3. The turning bit... this is the bit where it comes down to "feel " for me ..however if you have the first two down you should be up and riding earlier then you was before..therefore the wave wont be standing right up..this in turn will let you get into the turn before its too late.also it helps to KNOW if your going forehand or back..just saves a few nanoseconds of desicion time.

hope that helps

[surf patrol]

Hey
First off the positives. Congrats on the fact you keep paddling out after taking a pounding, this is a big step to take and it sounds like you have already taken it. Now to work on those late drops, You are completely right it is all in your head, it is totally about commitment, if your not committed you will fall guaranteed, this applies to so many maneuvers in surfing! I personally reckon its about 80% in your head because as soon as even the best surfers hesitate and im talking about surfers with some serious skill they fall!! Its really hard to get your mindset right for a late take off but i tend to fall into the category that i tell myself "well i have made a late drop before so there is no reason why i cant make another one", try and tell yourself that right before you take off. It will probably turn out when you make this one it wont be as late as the one you have made in the past.

Hope you nail a few more soon.