Jimi wrote: Take the longer 8ft boards out, and try to catch the wave further out than usual. Paddle a lot harder, and move your weight forward on the board as you are paddling, then move back toward the tail as you pop up. I think that will get you on the wave before it's too steep.
Thanks Jimi and RJD!!
I only went out for a few times after my last post. The last couple of times the waves were so rough I almost got seasick just sitting on the board... This afternoon I went again, rented an 8+ft board, the waves were good size for me(4-6ft), steady. As you guys suggested, I paddle out all the way to the line up, pay a lot of attention to the patterns of the waves, started paddle early and a lot harder. Finally, i nailed a few good ones, and this particular time when I try to catch this really high wave (such kind that I'd have nose dived and wiped out before), I felt like I was just slightly in front of the break because I paddle just that much harder, and I was on my feet half a second before the drop. Well, I got wiped out at the end because at the impact of the drop I lost balance and my back foot slipped off the side of the board. Yet, at least now I know that it could be done!
Another thing I discovered is that from watch 'the endless summer', the guys from the 60s were riding the pipeline using 9 footers. So the problem must be my techniques and not the board.
I am so fxxking stoked I have problem going to sleep.
