What do you do?

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

What do you do?

Postby DHSA » Tue May 30, 2006 11:33 am

What do you do when you are coming down the face getting all trimmed out bombing down the line, and you see that the wave is going to close out in front of you a couple of meters down the line?

Do you?

A. Get of the wave
B. Try and pop a floater to get onto the top of the white stuff (which is difficult as hell)
C. Turn towards the bottom so it breaks behind you and loose all momentum.
D. Smack in to the white water so that you can turn of it again towards the bottom to regain momentum in white water.

I normally take option C or B which I nearly never nail.

Normally when I take option D I get smacked when turning in to the white water.

Which option is the best to deal with this situation to sustain a longer ride?

p.s. I am talking small waves 4' - 6' with boards ranging from 6'8 to 7'6
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Postby Dec » Tue May 30, 2006 12:08 pm

Well...If the wave is a barrelling close out I try and stay inside it, 'cos its great to get bombed inside a close out.

If its crumbling, I do a complete 180 turn, then almost snap turn the waterwater that just broke to gain momentum. Then jump down and bodyboard it!!
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Postby DHSA » Tue May 30, 2006 12:26 pm

Hey Dec, cool man I like the idea of getting bombed in the tube..hehehehe.. I would try the 180 to snap of the top. see how that goes maybe I will be lucky and score some air!! :shock:
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Postby pat42 » Tue May 30, 2006 1:43 pm

I normally go for the floater.......but I find that if you f**k up a floater on a 60ft wave it can get a bit messy :wink:
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Postby Dec » Tue May 30, 2006 3:17 pm

Hey DHSA, What usualy happens to you when it closes out?
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Postby bluesnowcone » Tue May 30, 2006 5:04 pm

i normaly do anything i can, floaters ride smak into it what ever i feel like
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Postby GowerCharger » Tue May 30, 2006 7:51 pm

depends on the gnarlyness factor. On nasty waves where the paddle out is tough i'll try and make it over the back, on smaller fun waves if theres no way im gonna make it to the next section or the wave is closing out ill usually either pull in and take the close out barrell (if there is one) or try and cut back to hit the section behind.
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Postby baja fresk » Wed May 31, 2006 2:06 am

i have a shortboard, so i stall by turning away from the face then do a bottom turn back to where the wave is about to close out and do a snap off the top, and since the wave is breaking it shoots me like a bullet straght to shore. pretty good.

but the best thing to do i think is to just pump like hell and before it breaks launch into a crazy aerial! :twisted:

this is exactly what im talking about, see how its about to close out? so i instead of just exiting off the back or just wussing out and going forward toward shore, id just launch off the wave and paddle back out. do a nice flip and impress the others!

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Postby DHSA » Wed May 31, 2006 6:43 am

Hey guys thanks for all your advice - Dec, I try the odd floater but still just cant nail them every time thus wussing out by turnig towards the bottom and let it break behind me.

Next sesh I will try the snap of the top try and score some air like baja fresk or just pump the sh&t out of it and launch of the back.

Better than wussing out towards the bottom. :twisted:

I will let you all know how it goes, looks like today there will be some swell to go play on. 8)
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Postby dougirwin13 » Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:58 am

Depends on the wave and your mood :)

Try to float the section or bomb in it if its holllow... Or do a big arsed bottom turn and slam through and under the whitewater. That can be fun.

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