Board sliding out right from under me...

[Kit]

I am a newbie and a beginner so be kind...

I have been surfing on and off for a few years and am progressing. Can consistently pop up and turn and trim. I can catch a green wave WHEN I can get out back. (I tend to out of season in N. Cornwall when a bit choppy so quite often the waves are too big for me to do so). I have just come back from a lesson this weekend. The waves were clean, but the swell was very strong and fast and I managed to get out back a few times. I was getting frustrated as every time I caught a wave the board would literally just slide out from under me and many times I ending up doing pretty impressive body surfing straight back to the beach behind the board! The instructor at the time admitted the boards were slippy and they didn't wax them too much for the beginners so they could slide their knees along when popping up. He said it was the one time I was allowed to grab the board by the rails, which I did and a few times I managed to yank it back into position under me before popping.

I just wanted to know if this is just a beginner mistake, a normal thing with strong swell that I need to grab on, or more down to an unwaxed board? I have never experienced this before and found it frustrating that I spent all the time catching the perfect wave for my board which would leave before me and gutted that I didn't even get a chance to pop as the waves were so fast and good. It would just slide right out under me as soon as I caught a wave, and I would literally be surfing the wave on my own, with the board ahead, in a perfect line. I have to say, both I and the instructor was impressed with my body surfing...

[oldmansurfer]

It's possible that the waves are steeper or bigger than you are used to which results in the board going faster than you want. For many the instinct which is entirely the wrong thing is to lean back to try to slow down the board which will result in the board shooting out forward. The thing to try is to force yourself to lean forward. Bodysurfing is a good skill to have for a surfer. Long ago there were no board leashes and if you fell you had to swim in to get your board. This was a whole lot easier with bodysurfing skills. I had in fact many times fell and bodysurfed up to my board and on some occasions stood up and finished the wave riding the board once again.

[waikikikichan]

I just wanted to know if this is just a beginner mistake, a normal thing with strong swell that I need to grab on, or more down to an unwaxed board? I have never experienced this before and found it frustrating that I spent all the time catching the perfect wave for my board which would leave before me and gutted that I didn't even get a chance to pop as the waves were so fast and good. It would just slide right out under me as soon as I caught a wave,

It is not your fault, it is your instructor's fault. Why ? 2 reasons.
1) Not waxing their boards. Even sponge boards need a few scrapes of wax on them.
2) Teaching the "knees first" pop up. That will create a bad habit that is hard to break. Especially on bigger steeper waves, that technique takes up too much time.

I am a newbie and a beginner so be kind...

There are no bad students, just bad instructors ( and/or their equipment they try to teach with.

I want to see your instructor go out and pop up on those waves with an unwaxed board.

(You said be nice to you, but you didn't say not to be critical of your surf school)

[PipeDreams]

I had this same issue whilst I was progressing, where I would kick the board out especially in the bigger waves, best way to stop it for me was leaning into your front knee when dropping down the face of the wave, compressing my front knee more when pumping or doing a turn, and making sure you are looking down the line. Im not sure if by slipping out you mean falling backwards like i mean, but either way, you need to conciously do these things to stop it, then it becomes second nature and you will never kick your board out accidentally again

[Kit]

It's possible that the waves are steeper or bigger than you are used to which results in the board going faster than you want. For many the instinct which is entirely the wrong thing is to lean back to try to slow down the board which will result in the board shooting out forward. The thing to try is to force yourself to lean forward. Bodysurfing is a good skill to have for a surfer. Long ago there were no board leashes and if you fell you had to swim in to get your board. This was a whole lot easier with bodysurfing skills. I had in fact many times fell and bodysurfed up to my board and on some occasions stood up and finished the wave riding the board once again.

Yes, that sounds right. I probably was leaning back. It was quite an exciting experience body surfing! Many thanks for your advice.