Breaking through Waves Fixation

[Sgtsassafras]

New to surfing and new to the forum - seeking some beginner advice. I have taken a class in person and watched several well-known intro videos on the internet. I’m seeking some clarification on breaking through white water while paddling out.

In my first independent session I focused entirely on paddling technique on breaking through white water - needless to say after an hour and a half I was exhausted.

There seem to be four basic methods for dealing with this on a long board: punching through (paddle hard, push-up), sitting through (sit back and lunge forward at impact), turtle rolling, and ditching your board (I am confused by how often I see this recommended even though it is completely against etiquette). I tried the first two; punching through kicked me off a lot, and did not work on any significant size wave; sitting through worked better but was slow, and when the wave was too big…it hurt…in the face!

I am assuming the best method is to turtle roll, but this seems to have some bad feedback on the internet, and also I am not sure whether the techniques I tried did not work for the sizes waves I had (it was a 2-3 ft day) or it it was poor technique. Looking for some advice on this topic. I am fixated on mastering this and paddling before I even try to catch a wave and pop-up.

[waikikikichan]

I am assuming the best method is to turtle roll, but this seems to have some bad feedback on the internet,

1) Could you point out the website or video that gave Turtle Rolling bad feedback.
2) So if Turtle Rolling is looked down on, then how will you get out if you not able to Duck Dive, Push Thru, or Bail/throw your beginner long board ? ** BTW, what size board are you paddling out with ?

I am not sure whether the techniques I tried did not work for the sizes waves I had (it was a 2-3 ft day) or it it was poor technique.

3) So what technique did you use to Turtle Roll. What actual steps/movements did you take ?

I am fixated on mastering this and paddling before I even try to catch a wave and pop-up.

Question: What part of the body is most important to Turtle Rolling successfully

[Oldie]

It also depends where you surf. Turtle rolling is a good and proven method. But it takes some time and the right technique. In short-period conditions you might be better of finding a channel or calmer part to go around the break more widely.

[oldmansurfer]

Going through wave techniques will improve if you are doing it right. Turtle rolls take lots of practice

[BoMan]

In short-period conditions you might be better off finding a channel or calmer part to go around the break more widely.

Keep working on turtle rolls and Oldie's suggestion.

I also have success with timing my entry into the water between sets. Often there is a period when the waves are smaller that you can exploit to quickly paddle outside without even getting your hair wet! On 2-3 foot days this is a good option not only to get to the lineup but to paddle-in as well.

[Sgtsassafras]

Everyone, thanks for the reply. For better visualization of the techniques I was using, this video covers it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=C7-6qd5z5bU

I referenced many different sources, they all had slightly different terminology and takes on the techniques but the overall principal was the same.

Regarding where I heard negative feedback on turtle rolling - mostly forums, especially Reddit. I know this isn’t the most trusted source but…it’s what I have.

I’m all for improving on these two techniques by trial and error, but I am concerned that I may be mis-applying them to the sizes waves. Next time I’ll try turtle rolling - this seems like the least impactful method that will conserve energy.

[oldmansurfer]

I do several techniques of going through waves but the most effective technique is to avoid having to go through waves by timing or positioning. In other words go around the surf or wait for a break in the waves to go out. In smaller already broken waves I push away from the board and the whitewater passes under my chest and over the board. If the waves are a little bigger I push away similarly but also lean back so the wave hits the underside of the board. A little bigger and I do a half duck dive called a duck dip here. I shove the nose of the board underwater kind of doing a hand stand then diving deeper as the wave hits me and pushes the backside of the board down then I pull the nose up. Works well for me. In certain circumstances I do a turtle roll which are difficult to explain but mostly when I may get pounded by the wave

[waikikikichan]

I am worried that you are TOO FIXATED. That you will just force yourself to get out to the break ( get tired frustrated and end up in trouble ). I hope you don't go the path of "I'm going to get a handle on this turtle rolling thing no matter what !!"

Like I previously asked you, "which body part is most important in turtle rolling / getting out ?" You may think it's your biceps or core muscles. But the most important is your BRAIN. You need to learn the wave. You need experience to understand the motion of the ocean. As Oldie alluded to, sometimes the best way/quickest way out is not in a straight line, but to go around the long way. Sometimes you need to go further in to the beach to make it easier to get back out rather than putting your head down and try to muscle your way back.

Don't get fixated so much on one thing that you forget or don't notice the larger picture. ( or the correct path out )

[jaffa1949]

Uncle Jaffa‘s advice learned from when there were only long boards.
1. Learn to read the surf, rips and channels are your friend, most often the easiest way out with the water going the way you intend.
2. Turtle roll is the skill needed with a longboard, timing and positioning and paddle speed to the white water.Smaller waves yes, the push up position punch through can work ( any flaw in timing or technique sees you launched backward or off your board).
3. Throwing your board will most likely see you getting an abuse session at the least.

4. A lesson is not enough have more!
5. Question what sort of longboard are you riding? Foamies are notorious for not being able to breakthrough white water in novice hands.

BIG SAFETY HINT! If you cannot paddle out safely it is nature’s way of saying you don‘t belong in the line up and likely to be a hazard to yourself and others, a tough but true thought!

[delphin]

Turtle rolls can be highly effective with practice. I agree with Waikikichan that it all starts with the brain and your active choices. From there, a good turtle roll for me on my 9' or 9'2 starts with a deep in breath before I roll over. Then roll over with hands firmly holding the board (think death grip) Do this at least a second or two before the broken wave is rolling over you. Let your body hang down toward the bottom, perpendicular to the surface like an anchor. As the wave reaches you, stab the wave with the nose of the board to counter the momentum of the wave. Relax your body, breathe out and in one smooth move return the board to right side up and slide back on to continue paddling. Ideally a measured breath and relaxed body will ensure you feel in control and able to be ready for the next oncoming wave.

Repeat until you are either past the foam line, or at the magic number when you realize the ocean is not letting you out there. This number could be 5 or 7 or more....depends on your stamina, desire and assessment of your ability and feeling of risk. If you go into adrenaline mode after a few attempts and your muscles aren't working well and heart rate is up, then likely this is a signal to practice in the white water or just body surf....and "surf to surf aanother day."

Turtle rolls are great cardio, hone your feel for the rhythm of the ocean and whether the board you are using is too much for you...and they can keep you safe from other surfers at times and prevent you losing your board, hurting others with a loose board or getting pounded by the lip of the wave. They are a great move to learn for longboarders.

[Sgtsassafras]

Everyone, thank you for all your responses once again, I appreciate the thought and it is helping.

A few responses on related items.

I am on a foamie wavestorm, so yes, there isn’t much mass there to help, and I weigh in at 130 lbs myself. I’m athletic, so stamina and strength isn’t that much of an issue - within reason of course.

I took one class and while they were friendly, not that helpful. Frankly, I learned more independently reading and watching videos prior, and even more so in my first session moving at a methodical pace. I do plan to take more classes, but once I hit a barrier and need assistance on technique.

Regarding breaking water, here is what I suffice from everyone’s comments:

The best way to get out is to conserve your energy moving around waves strategically and using rip currents to your benefit.
Breaking through waves is possible and can be improved with time, but is highly energy intensive and has its limits - at a certain size wave, you are going to end up flipped over.
Diving under the wave is the most energy efficient but takes skill. With duck diving not possible, turtle rolling is the best option for a high displacement board. This takes technical skill and energy, but more efficient than breaking a big wave. I have seen several videos on this technique and understand in concept, I will put it to practice.

To clarify, I fully went into my first session with the expectation of being beat up, I just expected to beat the waves more than I did, and it not to take as much energy. Nonetheless, I still had a lot of fun and was not the least discouraged . I do feel this was beneficial though as it helped reinforced balance on the board lying and sitting, along with paddling technique.

Next time, I’ll practice turtle rolling for the first half, but then transition to bypassIng the impact zone as much as possible to start catching broken waves lying down, and then move to popping up. I have been practicing the standard pop-up at home on a yoga mat in anticipation .

[LostAtSea]

As others are saying, time your paddle out in between sets. Be patient. Find a rip if you can.

I am the worst turtle roller in the world. I prefer to paddle over or through the waves. Get some speed and charge through them, head down right through the breaking lip. If the waves are smaller go over them - lift your upper body up in a cobra position, lean forward and let the wave pass under your chest and keep paddling. Always keep paddling or the wave will pull you back.

If you time the set right, you will only need to punch through a few waves. Sometimes none.