by jaffa1949 » Sun Aug 07, 2016 11:48 am
That is a depends question. Sand bottom and if you are standing you can try a dive catch by timing your dive shallow parallel to the water in front to match the waves speed, hands out in front ,head down between your arms in dive position, if you get it right you are heading shoreward, you can then lift you head to breath and kick to give some speed. Rocky shoreline probably better to dive under the wave outwards. The crucifix exit can be valid if you just want to get pushed to shore, you will be tumbled but on the beach recovering?
Best learning get a pair of bodyboarding fins , go swimming in moderate surf and practice catching waves, learn tumble turn pull outs . Learn to go across the wave have fun, I reckon bodysurfing is an essential skill for all surfers ( too often neglected ) , it could save your life!
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷