What did I do wrong?

[surf patrol]

Hey guys! I was just lucky enough to catch some fantastic waves at Morro Bay. However I feel like I wasted the waves bc/ I didn't surf them properly. I hope you guys can tell me what I actually can do better and I'm really open for critics! I uploaded a video where I caught two waves.

First video is a wave where I missed the section. It just broke a lot faster than I was going. This is like my #1 problem, always missing the section and then just riding the whitewash preventing me from learning anything that needs a greenwave like turning or pumping.

This leads to the second video where I actually did catch a section that was unbroken for a second or two. I tried turning up the face and then down, but however the turn was not really powerful. It felt more like a banking to the right and left movement instead of a powerful turn. I was thinking of really leaning into the turn, but I felt way too slow for that. So how would you approach the wave if you caught any of those two?

Thanks a lot for your help, I really appreciate it!


Nhat

[Tudeo]

In my opinion u didn't do much wrong, in the first wave u got in and popped-up early enough. So maybe it's just down to wave (shape) selection and positioning.

Sometimes the peak of the wave breaks fast over some distance and then starts pealing, u need to position urself just around that area where it starts pealing. If ur position is too deep, u can't make the wave, the whitewater overtakes u and u can't get around it.

It all starts with selecting the wave with the right size and shape for ur position.

[waikikikichan]

Problem is a "dead front arm" or your leading arm is lock down to your side. Your upper body movement is mainly your back arm. Your body needs to be "Open" to the wave, especially on the back side. Having a lock down front arm, "Closes" the body. Where you look is where you go, but it helps for you to also point where you want to go with your leading hand. Like a door man gesturing " this way, ma'am".

And don't jump off your board. Learn to control your board from start to finish.

[Lebowski]

In the slo-mo at about 30 seconds, you were looking up to the lip of the wave, which is good, but you then saw it was about to break and straightened out towards the beach. I think you'd have been better trying to ride the board aggressively up into the lip. There is far more speed available at the top of the wave, and it could've maybe given you enough to get around the section.

[nhatphongtran]

Thanks guys! All really great suggestions. Can't wait to try out those things you suggested soon! The dead leading arm is definitely a habit that I need to get rid of. Hopefully I'll catch some unbroken waves soon to practice that!

Thanks very very much!

[jaffa1949]

I terms of video analysis of your surfing it is great if you can get someone to shoot you ( with a camera ) as the GoPro doesn't show what you are responding to.
Since you are riding a longer board then there is a sweet spot ( trim spot) you can move to where the board will match section speed and you will make it to the open face.

Angled takeoff can also get you closer to the open face in the initial phases.
Don't get too worried you have the beginnings of the basics so you are a work in progress

[nhatphongtran]

I terms of video analysis of your surfing it is great if you can get someone to shoot you ( with a camera ) as the GoPro doesn't show what you are responding to.

That means GF or Soloshot

Since you are riding a longer board then there is a sweet spot ( trim spot) you can move to where the board will match section speed and you will make it to the open face.

Do you mean changing the position where I'm laying on the board while paddling in or while I'm standing on it?

Angled takeoff can also get you closer to the open face in the initial phases.

Yea I tried that but it kinda does not get me up to speed enough to catch the wave. So now I'm basically paddling in straight but in the last 2-3 strokes I kinda move the board in one direction. But I see people paddling in at an angle already, idk how they do that.

Don't get too worried you have the beginnings of the basics so you are a work in progress

hopefully I always will be, that's why I love this sport so much

[nhatphongtran]

And what about my stance btw?

[jaffa1949]

And what about my stance btw?

My stance answer is that you are very body rigid with the locked arm and you initiate turn by only turning your upper body, you also have what I coined a ballerina poo stance.since you are riding backhand watch the video when the whitewater hits your bum sticking back towards the face it raises you off your feet . You are allowed on longboards to move your feet and become flexible in their positioning to change what how the board is moving.

I strongly suggest watching the video over a few times with the comments in mind and see if they fit.
Look toward where you are going to with each move and be already there in your mind your body will follow that intention, look to your feet or the beach and tht is where your body will put you.
Practice changing weight from back foot to front foot as you surf, observe what happens. How will that help you.
learn to drive force into your legs and feet to move the board.
Try and do stuff, fail many times, succeed and notice what you did that made the difference.
A big one here , take time to observe someone that is surfing in a manner you aspire to.
Watch how they go about doing what they do, imitate in small increments

Enjoy every little improvement , enjoy the wipeouts ( shedding fear).
Don't worry about looking foolish all of us did and most of us still do at times.

[nhatphongtran]

I think this is a bit better in terms of the front arm being a bit more active. But how do I get rid of the poo stance? Do I need to have my feet wider apart and bend the knees inward?

[dtc]

Poo stance is where you lean over with your head and have both hands on the front side of your body; so you stick your backside out to balance yourself. Your stance and hands look ok, hands are on opposite sides of the board where they are meant to be (usually) I think perhaps you are just a little stiff (not unusual given you are doing such a weird activity or surfing) and not twisting your upper body enough. If you stay still you won't be able to turn very much

Google 'surf simply poo stance' and you will find a little video on it/your stance that is worth watching if you still have some questions