by jaffa1949 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:40 pm
Hi and welcome , the swimming part is very lifesavingly important. You need to be able to swim in under the beach conditions you go out in.
Breast stroke probably won't cut it, you need to be able to freestyle to a level were you can catch a wave and body surf at the very least. You don't need to be strong enough to swim against rips ( no one is but strong enough to swim across them parallel to the beach or to swim in from where they have taken you. Importantly neither your board or your leash is a lifesaving device, they are aids to your skill to save your own life.
Swimming is a great fitness start for surfing, body surfing boogie boarding are great ways to understand the sea and waves.
There is plenty of pop up advice on the forum and links to other videos and stuff have a browse.
For more specific advice, tell us about your injury, is it permanent or a healing thing.
One champion surfer does it with only one arm ( shark attack) and another who is blind (how he does it I have no idea), there are a few one legged surfers, so an injury we can probably advise around.
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷