There used to be a poster on the forum called the maths teacher, but he is another equation now!
It becomes fairly clear that you are more of a novice than your quotient of snowboarding and skateboard is equal to.
The first law of rips is wherever they go do not apply force against the rip direction rather vector your effort across the rip in the direction you wish to go.
BTW if the current is running along the beach it is not a rip it is longshore drift ( a problem none the less) and it eventually feeds in to a rip .
We still don't know if you are a strong swimmer or not! If you are relying on your leash for safety (they can fail) you are being foolish!
You can use rips to get out beyond the break to where you can catch unbroken waves, or are you basing your assessment of skills on riding the white water?
I might seem to be fairly scathing in what I'm saying but almost every person shifting from land based board sports are in exactly the same boat as you and believe they are ahead of the learning curve.
Read this
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22638&p=169023#p169023
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷