use of rips to paddle out

[oldmansurfer]

I surf an 8 foot fungun and I do the duck dip with it and that seems to work for head high waves mostly I don't loose ground turtle rolling takes me longer and while I don't loose ground it takes longer so I loose time. Sometimes duck dive turtle roll or whatever you do other than swimming for the bottom you will get pounded but other than swimming for the bottom turtle rolling if done right is safer and less traumatic. The board protects you from the wave. Fitness is important too. I have been working at my fitness and I am finally getting to a place where I don't get winded by going through a bunch of waves. It's important to stay calm and reach way out forward when you are paddling to get out of the way of waves.

[pmcaero]

what's the exact sequence when turtle rolling?
how do I get the nose of the board to sink deep enough so that the waves don't flip me?
this has happened to me on Friday.

[oldmansurfer]

I am not sure that anything you do can keep some waves from battering you. Duck diving probably gives you the best way to avoid being battered but you can't do that with a big board. The way I do it is paddle toward the wave then turn over and dive down then pull the board down to me and brace my elbows on the board.

[dtc]

You have to grap the board close to the nose and then sink yourself down as far as you can, dragging the nose with you. I find it hard to sink down because of natural bouyancy, so sometimes you have to almost jump up in the air and then sink down

ie grap board, lift yourself up (maybe get on your kness on the board), flip board as you are coming down and sink.

Focus on getting the nose under the water - once the nose is under, its much much easier.

Also work on grip strength if you can. Even just hanging from a pull up bar or a tree branch is good.

[pmcaero]

that's what I tried to do....roll, grab the nose and try to bring it under, but, grabbing the board, it's hard to swim towards the bottom without using your arms

[oldmansurfer]

You need to practice on smaller waves. It takes timing and coordinated actions