Advice about catching unbroken waves

[Nomadicfootsteps]

Hi,

Was looking for some advice about what I may or may not be doing wrong.

So I am, on most days using an 8"0' to 8"2' board (rented). I have been surfing for about 1-2months and have no problem getting up onto my board in the white water and even sometimes on unbroken waves.

The problem that I have been having is that when I get out back into the line up. I find a wave that I like, start paddling for it and once I think that I have got it I actually just go straight down into the wave and wipe out. This has happen a number of times I was just wondering if anyone could shed some light on what I am doing wrong in these instances so that I can better understand how to do it properly.

I have had success catching unbroken waves (not alot but none the less have) and what I would usually do is try to go down the face towards the shore then trim to the left or right depending on which ever way the wave is pealing to go down the line.

Could any shed some light on this for me? Am I doing anything right or have I been lucky the times I have been am to go down the line?

Cheers,
J

[CARBr6]

once I think that I have got it I actually just go straight down into the wave and wipe out.

If I understand you correctly you are saying that you nose-dive (or pearl) before you can stand up?
If that is the case then the first thing to check is your positioning on the board. There are several conversations on this forum regarding correct positioning on the board when paddling. If you are nose diving then you are too far forward on the board, try shuffling yourself back a little. Just enough that the nose of the board is out of the water, not by too much or the board will drag and stall but it should be bobbing just above the surface, and make sure that when you pop up your front foot isn;t too far forward otherwise you will just drive the nose down into the water and flip. Your front foot should come into line with where your hands were on the board.
Check here (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21071) for advice and tips on your pop-up

[gd6]

Definitely adjust your position on the board like CARBr6 gave tips on. It sounds like you could possibly be too far foward on your board.

Also, make sure you paddle HARD before catching a wave, it is important to be moving pretty fast, otherwise you will pearl and get flipped by the wave. I thought I could just be in the right spot and not paddle too much, and it would always backfire for me on decent sized waves. There are people who don't paddle much for bigger waves but its not something to try as a beginner.

Finally, pay attention to the quality of the waves, and how it affects your paddle and pop up. Sometimes waves will throw much more lip yet sometimes the waves will just start breaking without really starting to form a barrel or tube. I still struggle a lot on 5 foot waves if they are throwing decent amount of lip, yet I can catch 5 ft waves confidently when they are not. I found that at my stage of learning I much prefer a sheltered point break, as opposed to a beach break, as even when the conditions are big the waves can me much more reliable and easy to read and thus easier to ride.

[Lebowski]

It's difficult to diagnose the problem with the information you've given, but I think that you probably need to learn to recognise when you've caught the wave.

If you are catching the waves and are only nosediving at the trough of the wave after rushing down it, then read on.

I hope my friend doesn't mind me using him as an example.

He should stand up here. He has already caught the wave. He could also angle a bit to his right as he stands in order to stay mid face on the wave.


But he continues paddling, which sends him hurtling down the wave whilst still laying down.


Now he starts to stand.


But it's too late really, and he's at the trough of the wave losing speed.


He manages to hold this one but the wave is over.


I suspect you may have a similar problem as it's something that happens a lot with beginners. The advice they are often given is to move back a bit on the board, but then this happens a lot....



If however, this is happening and you're sinking the nose before you've caught the wave, then you can try moving back a smidge.


Also, notice the difference in body position between the following 2 pics. You need to strengthen your back so you can lift yourself high like in the second picture. You can then paddle with more power and you'll get less tired.



Phew, that reply was longer than I planned!

[dtc]

Perling is rarely about body positioning - if you are so far foward that you are forcing the nose of the board into the water, then the nose is probably underwater when you are paddling and you will notice this quite quickly (as in the photo above)! This is different to perling, which is when the wave picks up the back of the board and drives the nose into the water.

Usually, as Lebowski pointed out, people are too far back and are bogging the board and missing the wave.

The key to not perling is paddling - you need to paddle fast. A lot of learners feel that paddling slower will give them more control, more time to remember to do all the other stuff they need to do. But, actually, paddling slower just causes perling (I have said many times its like riding a bike - peddling slower doesnt make it easier, it makes it harder).

So you need to paddle fast and hard - as fast and hard as you can. You need to be roughly matching the speed of the wave when it arrives, so move out a few metres and start paddling earlier and make sure you have the speed when the wave arrives. Commit to the wave - fluffing about hoping it wont hurt you will actually make it hurt you.

Try paddling slightly at an angle (eg 25 deg to be beach) if you can, as this gives a little bit of extra 'anti perling' help, but if you are paddling properly then you can go straight without a problem.

Remember you are trying to catch the wave near the top and then zoom down the face of the wave - you are not trying to catch the wave at the bottom.

[Nomadicfootsteps]

Thanks for all the replies guys, it sounds like it's definatly pearling that has been happening. What happens is that I can feel the wave as if I've caught it but instead of being able to go down the face of the wave. I am, along with the board, am flipped over. I think I do just need to paddle harder, which I think is something that I need to work on. Getting used to long paddles and getting the strength to still paddle for waves.

Thanks guys!