Missing the waves

[colt]

Hi all new to the forum here.. Surf east coast. South Delaware and Maryland area. Picked up surfing last year during the summer. I seem to have a problem being in the right spot for the wave. I either miss the wave or get slammed by a break because i'm too far ahead to compensate for missing it. Not sure if I have a paddling issue or a positioning issue. How do i know im in the right spot for the wave?

[behindThePeak]

what kind/size board are you using? where specifically are you surfing? there are different techniques for different board types and wave shapes.

[colt]

each time was rentals so different boards, but around mid 7 foot length fun boards. waves were usually 2-3ft and im pretty sure beach breaks but not 100%. am a beginner. but the waves break near the shore. if you get a surf report for delaware indian river inlet thats where im surfing but maybe a half mile north.

[behindThePeak]

ah, then you're on the right track. reading waves just takes time to learn. surfline.com describes your spot as crowded so try to take note where other people are sitting and emulate (watch your manners though, and keep a polite distance). also note that some days are worse than others. if the waves are steep and/or break all at once you're going to have a hard time that day; just roll with it, or maybe ride the whitewater. seek out round crumbly waves with discernible slow-breaking shoulders. generally speaking: the rounder the wave, the larger window of time you have to catch it.

also, breaking waves are shaped by the sea floor. every wave will tell you something about how the floor is shaped which will tell you how the next wave will break. it's kind of like trying to understand a landscape by a flickering light. watch, take note, and you'll soon learn to predict where you need to be for the sets. know too that the tide, swell, currents, and sandbars are constantly changing so stay flexible.

i recommend buying a board. They each have their own sweet spots for balance and you're not doing yourself any favors by adding that variable into the mix.

for some good old cheezy one-with-the-wave inspiration go rent The North Shore: "when the wave breaks here, don't be there, or you're gonna get drilled..." hahaha

[colt]

yea the waves always seem to break quick when i've been.. I've tried to learn the science as much as i can online during the winter to hopefully speed up the process when i get to go back out this spring.

[NorthMyrtleB]

A few East coast pointers.

Very few spots are consistent. It can change in 10 minutes. Mornings are usually the best. (Wind direction)

Waves dont always break in the same spot. Just got to watch and adjust your position.

Get further up on the board on the mushy / fast period days. Trial and error.

Low tides can produce steep small waves. These will cause you to pearl and toss ya. Start off on a 45 degree angle, not pointing at the beach.

Check Swellinfo. Look at the winds, period and height. Fast period days (4 -6 seconds) will beat you, test you, piss you off and wear you out. But I still love those days!

The days there is no one out. There is a reason for it! Rips and side shore currents! Or bait fish jumping everywhere. (Feeding time!)

Other than that, just have fun! If you find yourself getting frustrated, sit on the beach, chill out and think about your popups and take offs. Cant drag your legs or put to much weight on the back. The waves will just pass you by.