Getting up to speed to catch waves

[flo_dhbomb]

Hi all,
I am a landlocked surfer crazy about wanting to learn to surf. I've been learning for a few years and manage to surf about 30 days a year while on vacation. Having said that I still pretty much suck. I am catching green waves and doing some turns but now I miss catching a lot of good waves. I hear different advice so I thought I would ask for more thoughts. I'm 5'3" 115lbs and fairly fit but I don't seem to be able to get the speed I need on a 8'6" Steven Slater. I see some people catch waves with two or three strokes while I paddle like a madwoman and get left behind.

I'm looking back more as I paddle and that has helped a bit to judge what's coming but I still have a lot to learn about what I'm looking at.

So far I have heard:
- Get a longer board - but I'm small and want something I can still turn and my arms are only long enough to carry a ~22" wide board. I see most posts recommend a much smaller board for someone my size
- What about a different board shape ? What kinds of shapes make for fast paddling and does this create other disadvantages
- Paddle harder - I think I'm leaving it all out there but apparently not. What tips to you have to be a more effective paddler?
- Sometimes I'm afraid to catch the wave I'm paddling into and pull back at the last second so I miss it. I have missed some of the best waves because of my chickenhead !
- Be more agro ! I'm trying !
- What about positioning on the wave. I often sit a little inside hoping to catch the smaller cast-off waves from the better surfers but sometimes that means I get caught inside so I'm a little torn about where to settle in

Enough babbling. Let's see what you think.

[SSSurfer]

You answered the question on your own without knowing it.
"I'm looking back more as I paddle". Best advice I ever got.. DONT LOOK BACK. Look where you want to go. This is good advice once you're up and riding too. Dont look down, or at the beach. Look at the lip if you wanna smash the lip Also what's helped me the most. Relax. F**K the good surfers at the peak. Sometimes you're gonna be a speedbump. I mean don't be a huge jerk but once in a while you're gonna be pretty damned close to them while they're up and riding. Watch some pro videos. Talk about close calls. It's ok. Especially if you're a chick you're gonna get a way with A LOT more than I would. lol

Longboards paddle different than short boards too. Just like a long train compared to a short car. You can get a shortboard up to speed pretty quick, especially if you're in the pocket when it starts to suck up the face. I've seen guys catch big waves without paddling at all. just pushing the shortboard down and leaning over into the pocket at the right time. Longboards need to be steadily stroked up to speed. Smooth and strong. the power in a paddle comes from the first half of the paddle too. NOT the 2nd half. REACH and push down and in an S motion and bring the water up towards the bottom of the board. When Im paddling out to the lineup (sometimes 1/4 mile or more) I keep my fingers OPEN on my hand and I get up to speed. Less resistance equals less exertion, can surf longer. When I want a wave I and Im a little out of position I close em but leave my thumbs out. If I'm absolutely gonna get crushed by a set Ill cup my hands and really dig.

[flo_dhbomb]

That seems like interesting advice. Seems to be the best advice in all the other sports I do (mountain biking, snowboarding, etc.) Look where you want to go and you go there. Never look where you don't want to go or you'll go there. That might help me to commit to waves better and think about what I'm going to do when I stand up. Right now it seems like I pop up and go straight and then trim turn from side to side trying to find the best green water.

How do you judge whether to pull back if you're not looking back (i.e. catching too far inside) ?

Thanks

[torben]

Hi. My suggestion is. Find your optimal position on the board. This is where the tip of board is 1 inch out of the water. Mark this position. Use this position always.
When the wave is just lifting the board, it tend to dig in. Arch your bag to prevent this. A second later your chest and chin should be touching the board. While you keep paddeling. If looking back, then do not stop paddeling.

Often beginners get closer into the breaking zone, hoping to get a better push. After a few nose dives, they start to move back on the board to prevent this. Now they have several things wrong. And can not catch the waves.

Cheers Torben

[SSSurfer]

How do you judge whether to pull back if you're not looking back (i.e. catching too far inside) ?
Figure that out before you start paddling. Sit for a while. watch where others are taking off. How are the waves breaking? offshore wind? reef? pointbreak? closeouts? etc.. It's more of a feel thing once youre out there though. Try not to think too much. Just go. You can make it super early if youre paddling well and you really want it or you can get it super late and drop ON the foamball if you have to too. The thing is to just go go go . All the time. go.
If you have taken your lumps learning to snowboard you shouldnt get hurt surfing. I mean strange stuff happens and I've got reef scarred feet, elbows and arms to prove it. And yeah a fin can do some damage too. but that first day getting your ass kicked on the slopes hurt A LOT. For days. I remember. And you wont drown if you dont panic so.. Just chill and get some waves
If youre paddling a longboard you should never really be caught inside paddling for a wave. the thing is to sit outside, see it and start paddling from outside and almost OVER the peak of it and dropping into it.