Fear factor...

[dunno]

o.k, this is a real weird one, though something Im guessing a lot will be able to relate to..

I would classify myslef as a strong swimmer and comfortable in the sea. Whilst I have 'surfed' on and off for the last 5 years it has only been the last 6 months I have been going continually every weekend.

The problem is though after getting polaxed pretty good a few times my confidence has really taken a beating. Its strange, but there is almost a subliminal 'fear factor' creeping in that is really strange for me, as I have never really been scarred of anything. Maybe its just getting old and the self presevation awareness kicking in...who knows. But on the weekend had a good wipeout and got held under, popping up and taking a gasping breath very close to the limit of how long I could hold my breath for. This left me very shaken up and I headed back to the beach for a sook and a search for my testicals.

Eventually found them and headed back out, but was still very 'nervous' and didnt really enjoy it after that..

So whats the go..

a) Suck it up and stop being a pussy
b) its normal, just chill and it will get better with experiance
c) you need to practice holding your breath
d) dont wipe out and problem solved

[IB_Surfer]

Dude, you already gave yourself all the right answers LOL.

The main difference now is that you go more often so more of a chance for whipeouts, and thus scary moments.

Next time don't go in though, better to go out and get bussy surfing to get your mind off the misshap.

Lastly, not sure if you are wipping out on your take-offs or while riding. If it's on take-offs work on taking a better angle, if it's while riding don't drop into the closeout, punch through the wave instead.

[dunno]

Thanks mate,

It was actually whilst paddling out . Was pretty much out the back when this moster wave popped out of no where, I tried to duck dive it but didnt get deep enough and it grabbed me and flipped me over on my back and into the spin cycle lol, whos ya daddy now!!

So spent the next 7 seconds spinning around in circles thinking 'sheesh this is a big one, hope I pop up soon' lol 7 seconds sure feels a long time when inverted

[drowningbitbybit]

I had one like that a couple of months ago. There was a board-snapping amount of violence

Scared the cr@p out of me at the time, and for a few sessions after.
And, yeah, you answered your question. "All of the above".

Get out there as often as you can, and just keep doing it.

[Beachbum]

yep just keep practicing, and I experienced an extreme spin cycle as well. I was hugging my board from a while doing triple backflips haha from a late duck dive.

[paulyoffshore]

gotta say I've been thinkin bout this one for a while. Although I'm new to surfing (only begun catching legitimate waves) I've learned some fast, blunt lessons that have helped me come to where I am now. Mainly in this case, that the ocean is dangerous. Not that I didnt "think" that before I started. I thought I knew, but I didnt REALLY know. For me there is a fear of the unknown. What might happen.(insert your own scenario)

There are no "pussys" that surf. Not any I know of. You're out there, most of the time having a blast but somtimes, something happens and the fear raises its head to take a peek. Somtimes a quick one, somtimes a long one. In this case its a longer one. Perfectly natural. Your body is trying to tell you that what you're doing is dangerous. It is. I take moments like these and think , "oh, see I thought I knew but i still dont know S***. This thing is much bigger than i had given credit for". Time for more humility. The ocean has a way of helping in that capacity. Or you can just say "I wiped out, it sucks and it freaked me out". But you don't strike me as that kind of person. You posted here looking for some insight.
This is mine.

...but you do have to
get back out there.
Waddayuh gunnuh do?
Quit?

pussy

[teaweed]

I think everybody goes through that phase. I remember there being a point where the "fun" factor of surfing eventually overcomes any "fear" or uncertainty I have before jumping in the water.

[rcd]

It all comes with years in the water.

In my early years (20yr back, ouch am I that old? ha ha) I use to just try and power out through the surf with out thinking, duck diving etc. But got held under a lot in bigger surf.

These days I'm very much wiser and time everything. Even when to exert myself or just hang and let a set wave break and loose some power before getting to me. I also time the bounce in a wave. In that I mean, when a waves breaks it will bounce off the bottom so if you time it right you will not experience any turbulence at all.

It all amounts to time in the water and wave knowledge.

[phillwilson]

rcd could you explain this bounce a little more? it sounds like something I could use on my home break...are you paddling over the "bounce"? or cutting through /ducking etc?

[Sar]

This is mine.

...but you do have to
get back out there.
Waddayuh gunnuh do?
Quit?

pussy

that always works for me! if someone says im too weak to do something I'll go do it.....but if they're all nice, I'll talk myself out of it. Im not particularly competative usually (kinda lazy for all that crap) but like to keep up (youngest of 4 kids). You have already given yourself the right answers but perhaps adding a competative edge would help. Go with someone whose abilities you are confident of, keep up, know that they have your back and enjoy.


Ive been faffing about too much recently and have promised myself that I will push myself more now. Do the same and let us know how you get on. GO FOR IT!!!

[surferdude_scarborough]

A little bit of fear just means youre pushing the envelope a bit which is a good thing. Theres always going to bew some amount of selfp preservation going on in the very back of your mind. If, however, you are terrified all the time you are out there then maybe its time to dial down what conditions you paddle out in until you are more confident.

Wipeouts do happen and a bad one can dent your confidence for the rest of the session or for a few weeks if its a really bad one. I remember one i had a few weeks ago where i got slammed into the sand harder than i ever had before. I had to get out there and then and go home ( i was about ready to leave anyway but i think i would have got out anyway). This one knocked my confidence for a couple of weeks afterwards as i knew if id landed differently it could have been a very serious injury. The best thing to do is to get back out there as soon as possible because the longer you let it eat at you the more scared you will be the next time you paddle out. if you get back on it straight away sooner or later youll have a wipeout as bad and it wont seem as scary as the time before..

[imperio59]

I think knowledge of the spot where you are at helps tremendously for this too. I know for me on certain spots the fear was always hitting the reefs, until I realized as long as I stay on the right side of the beach I will always have time to exit a wave before getting there. You have to know the tide, how bad it gets when it gets low in regards to reefs and sandbars, etc...

Of course I still get wiped out pretty bad every once in a while even in spots I know like everyone, but hey, that's part of the fun too, scaring yourself awake a bit! Better than a dull day at the office