Why longboard for small waves

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

Why longboard for small waves

Postby greypump » Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:37 pm

Just intetested - why are longboards good for small waves? You would have thought big boards would be for big waves?
greypump
Local Hero
 
Posts: 104
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:05 pm

Postby mikej » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:12 pm

you need to be going faster to catch small waves and longboards go much faster than shortboards. they also have more momentum.
mikej
New Member
 
Posts: 11
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 12:34 am

Postby isaluteyou » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:46 pm

the more surface area the easier a wave will pick the board up. The longer the board the more paddle - there are other dynamics but thats the gerneral concesus :lol:
User avatar
isaluteyou
Big Wave Master
 
Posts: 2189
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:41 am
Location: San diego - Ocean beach, Praying For Swell

Postby greypump » Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:06 pm

So, if your local spot has small to medium size waves then a longboard is quite a good idea?
greypump
Local Hero
 
Posts: 104
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 6:05 pm

Postby isaluteyou » Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:08 pm

yes but not always as that depends on your riding prefrences i have no probs riding 2ft-16ft+ on my collection of shortboards :lol: granted in 2ft ankle slappers a longboard would work better :wink:
User avatar
isaluteyou
Big Wave Master
 
Posts: 2189
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:41 am
Location: San diego - Ocean beach, Praying For Swell

Postby LOLRuss » Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:12 pm

Longer, thicker board = More buoyancy

More buoyancy = Easier to catch small waves

More of the wave pushes on more of the surface area of the more buoyant board, and this means it will get pushed more by a small wave than a smaller board.

My 11' board is so buoyant that if I botch a duck-dive, sometimes I end up catching the wave - BACKWARDS - while paddling AGAINST it.
User avatar
LOLRuss
Local Hero
 
Posts: 257
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:51 pm
Location: Flagler Beach, FL

Postby justloafing » Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:27 pm

How do you duckdive an 11' board?
justloafing
SW Pro
 
Posts: 590
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 4:37 pm
Location: Wailuku, HI

Postby isaluteyou » Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:13 pm

justloafing wrote:How do you duckdive an 11' board?


ive seen it done i doubt its very effective in bigger waves though :wink:
User avatar
isaluteyou
Big Wave Master
 
Posts: 2189
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:41 am
Location: San diego - Ocean beach, Praying For Swell

Postby parrysurf » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:47 am

justloafing wrote:How do you duckdive an 11' board?



skill and weight......but all the skill in the world won't get er dun unless u weight 230+
parrysurf
SW Pro
 
Posts: 726
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:37 am
Location: ventura california

Postby LOLRuss » Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:17 am

justloafing wrote:How do you duckdive an 11' board?


You use your mass - but it doesn't get that deep. Maybe 2 feet. But thats a lot better than getting washed along with the wave on the surface. And yeah - in big waves you got to flip over/toss the board.
User avatar
LOLRuss
Local Hero
 
Posts: 257
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:51 pm
Location: Flagler Beach, FL

Postby immortal technique » Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:55 am

LOLRuss wrote:
My 11' board is so buoyant that if I botch a duck-dive, sometimes I end up catching the wave - BACKWARDS - while paddling AGAINST it.



LOL, pop-up and ride the wave next time.
immortal technique
New Member
 
Posts: 6
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:08 am
Location: Honolulu, HI

Postby garbarrage » Thu Jun 19, 2008 4:16 pm

did just that on a longboard a few weeks ago.... was paddling back out after a wave, got caught inside and hit by a biggish wave.
felt like it was going to toss me, then just before the board got to that critical point where you are upside down the nose swung round and i was heading for the beach... decided i might aswell stand up. then did exacly the same thing on the way back out for the next wave. got sense the third time and turtled! lol
that count as a fakie take off?!
User avatar
garbarrage
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 900
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 1:55 am
Location: Strandhill, Sligo 5 minutes from the waves finally!!

Re: Why longboard for small waves

Postby parrysurf » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:05 am

greypump wrote:Just intetested - why are longboards good for small waves? You would have thought big boards would be for big waves?



One word glide. 8)
parrysurf
SW Pro
 
Posts: 726
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:37 am
Location: ventura california

Re: Why longboard for small waves

Postby joem » Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:29 pm

greypump wrote:You would have thought big boards would be for big waves?
this does apply once over a certin size of wave but think more of fish to guns rather than longboards you do get 10' big wave boards but these bear little reblence to longboards
joem
Local Hero
 
Posts: 373
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:02 am
Location: north east, england


Similar topics

Rogue Waves
RELATED: Surf Chat
Author: BoMan
Replies: 5
Beautiful Waves
RELATED: Photos and Surf Photography
Author: BoMan
Replies: 257
Return to Surfing Lessons For All