is my 9'2" Hobie Fusion the right board to learn on

[waterdog62]

Howdy, I just joined and am looking forward to using this site. I need some straight forward honest answers about learning to surf. I'm 46 years old, and I just retired from supercross/motocross racing. My friends have convinced me I should learn to surf. I've been training for about a month now trying to get some endurance in my paddling. I surf in the Ft. Lauderdale area, and I got hooked up with a custom Hobie 9'2 Fusion it's the talk of the beach everytime I go. As cool as that is I'm not sure it's the right board for me. It seems as if it is very difficult to paddle out thru the white water, currents and beach swells that we have here. I seem to be fighting to get to the line up and by the time I get there I'm spent. I tried paddling my friends very small 6'2 board this week and it was so much easier, however I know it will be difficult to catch a wave and for me to stand on. I'm in pretty good shape, 5'7" 190lbs (a lot of muscle which doesn't float well) and I would like to know if maybe a fish in the 7'0 to 7'4 range wouldn't be the answer. I surf twice a week and if there's no surf I still practice paddling. My Hobie just seems to be so hard to control because of the size. Any good advice would be greatly appreciated. I want surfing to work out for me and to not get discouraged and quit. Thanks

[garbarrage]

how you getting on with the actual surfing? you standing and turning? not surfing years myself or anything but i'd say to stay away from anything with a pointy nose. tried it myself with much frustration. maybe try a minimal or an egg shape if its really that hard to deal with a 9'2 out there. try hold onto it tho if its that nice a board. you may get days where its calm between the sets or smaller days and it won't be such a burden.

just a thought tho... i'm fairly in shape myself from rock/tree climbing and found paddling tough when i started too. its gotten easier in the last while as i've been out a bit more. think water fitness is a different type of fitness. kind of a mix between sprint and marathon if that makes sense?

[waterdog62]

Thanks, I do intend to hang on to the Hobie, it's totally one of a kind. I hear what you are saying about the water fitness vs other types of fitness, thats encouraging. As far as the standing and turning, I'm so wiped out by the time I get to the line up I usually just end up surfing in laying down. I've stood a few times but no turns the waves that I've caught have been closer to shore and little time to do much. I most likely know the answer to my own question, which is get in better shape and keep practicing, take some lessons. I guess I just wanted to see if there might be a board that would make it easier, and to make sure I'm not making it harder with using my Hobie. Thanks again for the reply.
Tex

[garbarrage]

keep checkin the thread tex. other people on here much more experienced than me who might have something better to add also maybe check some of the other threads. cool info all over this site.

just another point.... try stickin to the whitewater or broken wave for a bit and fight the urge to get out back. you'll get to grips with standing and turning a lot quicker, when you've got that cracked (shouldn't take more than a couple of sessions if you are consistent) then head out back. you'll catch way more waves and not have to wait so long between each one. it'll give you more of a paddling workout too. also until you can stand and turn there's not much point in being out back anyway. from the sound of it you could just end up getting in people's way which may not go down so well. particularly if you surf the same beach regularly.

[waterdog62]

Thanks I'll keep checking. One great thing about Ft. Lauderdale there's plenty of room, even on days when the surf is up it's not what I would consider crowded. I'm going to take a couple of lessons from Kali "The Big Kahuna" from Island Water Sports in Deerfield. He is considered one of the best instructors in the world and if I want this surfing thing to work out for me I think it's the right path.
I look forward to any and all responses!
Tex

[Plaz]

I'm happy to hear I'm not the only crazy 46 year old starting surfing. I'm 6'3", 215lbs. and got my 9'2" late last summer. I never got up, but I have a wetsuit this spring, (I surf DE and NJ coasts), and am looking forward to finally standing. Yes, paddling a board that size does take a lot of strength. Maybe some weight training in the specific muscle groups used to paddle could help??? Just keep going out, trying new things, ask questions. Hopefully by summer we'll both be standing! Good luck.

[waterdog62]

Likewise glad to hear another Old Guy is giving it a try. I've been working the weights in the gym doing specific surf training sets. I can't really tell if it's helping yet. I know that my buddy who is in great shape(he's only 26 and a Ocean Rescue Lifeguard) actually says that weight lifting can hurt your surfing. Swimming is suppose to be the best with strecthing and maybe some lite specific weight training, of which I've been doing all the things mentioned. It just seems these long boards have so much surface area that it just makes it difficult to get thru the choppy surf we get here. However I've been talking with Kali "The Big Kahuna" whose creditials are super impressive and is a certified teacher, and he says I just need to be tought how to deal with the white water. That being said a private lesson is my next step. Hopefully on a day that's a little messy. It does seem though that there should be a balance between to big and too small. I'm going to wait and go with the lessons and then evaluate everything and maybe rent a different board or two to try.
Good Luck
Tex

[parrysurf]

welcome Tex,

I have been surfing over 30 years, and I recommend staying with the 9'2" log. If you get a lesson I am sure he will be able to give some good tips on paddling. Positioning yourself well while paddling makes all the difference in the world. You will also need to work on your duck dive. When you master the duck dive then paddling through the white water is a piece of cake.

Most of all lesson or not, keep trying. Surfing is a sport of incremental gains. Don't expect to be a competent surfer for a while now, even with frequent sessions. A couple years from now you will be looking back at these times fondly.
Good luck
Parry.

[justloafing]

Plaz and Tex, Gotcha beat......I did not start till I was 48

I gotta agree with what most posters say about not having paddled out enough. You will get it Tex. Every time I have taken time off from surfing ie a month or two. It is harder the first time back in the water, It also took me a little time when I first started to get out past the whitewater and be ready to go. You just have to keep going for it. Try timing the sets coming in so you hit a lull in the waves and find a rip to help take you out. I have been caught in the "impact zone before too and it can be a bitch to punch through but your stamina will get better and you will start making it out and feel okay once you are out. It takes time don't get discouraged you will get it. Promise

[waterdog62]

Thanks for the encouragment guys!!!! I went out again this morning, the surf was pretty weak, but that was good because I could get out easy and a chance a quite a few waves. Caught a couple missed a bunch, got a great workout in though.
For those of you in So. Florida who are interested Island Water Sports in Deerfield Beach, has free surfing lessons every Sat. morn. at 7:00. There great they even furnish boards at no cost. They cover the basics and then get in the water and try to help everyone catch a wave. Kali "The Big Kahuna" is one of 6 Master instructors in the USA. They do a great job helping everyone to have fun and possibly get hooked on surfing. Two thumbs up I.W.S.

[RJD]

Longboards take different skills to a shortboard - especialy to get out back.

Shortboards they can just go for it and duckdive.

Longboards you have to aim at the right spot (rip etc), time your paddle for when theres a lul, paddle the board properly (i.e. quick and well trimmed) and get used to taking waves on the head (be it shorebreak or whatever) without getting knocked back or over. Or even learn to turtle.

I'd guess that after a month your paddling technique isnt going to be that hot, your awareness of the ocean isnt either. Get both wrong and you can sit there all day padding and get nowhere.

After 3 years I still have days where the period of the waves + the size etc is just too much for me to get out back.

On the upside, on a longboard when you get it right its sweet, and you'll be on your feet and trimmed down a face way before you could be on a shorty.

[waterdog62]

I appreciate your reply, I'm sticking with it and training hard. As soon as my conditioning gets a little better I'm going to take some private lessons. Work smarter not harder!!!!
Tex