Hi,
Another question from me. I am still riding a 7'6'' minimal and have recently been focussing on the position of my feet (shuffling forward and backwards). I noticed you can get back into a wave which has almost passed below you by walking to the nose of the board. Thing is, I think that since then I have started to move too much towards the front of the board.
I usually have one foot about 40-50 cm from the back of the board and the other just below the logo (40-50 cm from the nose). Is that too much weight on the front? I notice the board going under at times, especially when I am turning.
Another reason I am asking is that I see other people with the backfoot right above the fins. Some surfers even seem to lift 3/4 of the (long)board out of the wave as they are riding towards the beach, with only the back part of the board actually touching water. Does this help you catch steep waves?
I hope this makes sense to anyone...