Wounded.

I knew it was a bit sketchy as I paddled out. I could see the lip was beginning to dump just at the suckiest section of the reef, but I paddled out anyway. Sitting just outside the take-off zone, I could see that some of the groms were struggling to make it over the crumbly section and were kicking out just before the reef's tip. I waited for a little while, and then a much larger set came through, putting me right at the shoulder on a wave that should have been enough to push me over the dry section. I paddled in and immediately slotted into a barrel, but had to push really hard to get out of the green and back into daylight. Down the face and onto the flats, I could see the reef only a couple of feet away, so I pushed back up to the lip, and just as I'm about to pull the re-entry, some dude from a magazine, pushes his camera right into my face, so I had to stall the board to stop from skewering his head. The board got bogged down just as the lip came over and I ended flying over falls, right onto the reef. I got mashed down and held under for, like, a minute. I popped up just as another set came in and got held down again. Felt like an hour under there. Finally, I got back to the channel and could paddle back onto the flats. Coulda been worse, the only wound I had was a gnarly slash in my hand. I had to get out though as I was worried about what all that blood in the water would attract.
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This is of course, complete bollox.
I slashed my hand doing the washing up this morning
A fleshin' glass broke as I was washing it and slashed right into my index finger, and there was blood everywhere.
I did have to stop (washing up) because of all the blood in the water though
Just off the see the doc and get it stitched up
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This is of course, complete bollox.
I slashed my hand doing the washing up this morning

A fleshin' glass broke as I was washing it and slashed right into my index finger, and there was blood everywhere.
I did have to stop (washing up) because of all the blood in the water though

Just off the see the doc and get it stitched up
