Surfing Waves

i would be interested in hearing your thoughts.

i was thinking, and recall something a friend i once had who said this: "there is such thing as loving something or someone too much to the point it becomes damaging, and just like anything...moderation is the key". i believe it to be true, to some extent.

don't you wonder about those people who have the opportunity to surf nearly all day, everyday, and how they live their lives? i feel like they've succeeded at embracing life and what they enjoy, and being able to live it- they love to surf, and can do it all the time. so, is it really possible by their example to love something so much without any negative consequences?

As long as its not a 'substance' I dont think you can love anything that makes you more healthy too much.

surfings only unhealthy when theres no swell, i get so stressed if i go to long without a surf end up looking at the eastcoast presure charts for the US looking for some low presure system to start forming in the hope that it might send us some waves

okay. i see what you guys mean.

but seeing that most people realize that life is short, and it's meant for fun and living to the fullest, why aren't more people out there doing what they really love?

surfing is unhealthy, as far as being a "normal" productive member of society.
In order to be able to surf all the time i work part time (which means im always skint), dont make any plans farther ahead than the latest surf forecast, live by the beach - where there isnt much decent work about anyway, and pretty much let down anyone who relies on me whenever theres a good swell.
Wouldnt have it any other way.

Thats the way GC. The only negative thing about surfing is it makes you broke. But its all worth it. If I could surf everyday for the rest of my life then Id know my life has deffinately been worth living.

Gower Charger an Laguna.........that's my outlook totally!!!

I'm a bit stuck here in London at the moment and have weighed myself down with material possesions, but my plan is that within 2 years I will be able to rent my place out and offload the possesions and be able to live a very simple life in a warm country surfing everyday!

So to answer the initial post, I love surfing!!! I love the way it makes me feel about myself I love the fact that surfing everyday keeps me ultra fit, I love the adrenaline rush when I surf, I love the feel of sea water against my skin and I love the sun on my face!

Of course you have to have balance in your life and have other interests apart from surfing because like Phil says and like I saw in Riding Giants (I think?) that surfers can get seriously depressed if theres no swell. And this can affect everyone around you.

When it comes to being able to do the thing you love the most, I think it's all about choices........a lot of people can't see that there is a choice, maybe due to finacial constraints, work or familly commitments, but I know there are lots of lucky people who do the thing they love and manage to make money at it.

I know I would never make money from surfing, but I love driving and I make a living from that!

pat42 wrote:I'm a bit stuck here in London at the moment and have weighed myself down with material possesions, but my plan is that within 2 years I will be able to rent my place out and offload the possesions and be able to live a very simple life in a warm country surfing everyday!

thats what im doing once i finish uni gonna try and get some work in a warmer country with consitant surf, ive had it with the UK, its polotics, its cold rainy weather, and its lack of decent consitant waves

never really wanted much from life never been one of those coprate assholes that cares more for money, fast cars and big houses i just want a simple life some where nice with surf for most of the year.

the first chance i get to get out of this country im taking it

Hear hear

One thing though........I've lived in a few countries and the grass isnt always greener. They have their own problems and annoyances, but these are things you have to put up with!

Agree with Phil and Pat. After my degree I would love to be able to move to a warmer country with decent more consistent waves. Id much prefer a small crappy beach house with an ok salary in a hot country with good surf, than have a huge mansion in the UK with ferraris, swimming pool....etc

pat42 wrote:Hear hear

One thing though........I've lived in a few countries and the grass isnt always greener. They have their own problems and annoyances, but these are things you have to put up with!

i think if i could surf all year round everyday i could put up with just about anything

WHAT!!!! Even nubile surf groupies who want to caress and massage you with coconut oil as you come out of the water after a 5 hour session!!!

I think you'll soon get bored of that scenario Phil.........Trust me

sounds good you guys. nice to read what you think, all of which makes sense to me.

even though i'm a beginner, i put my heart into surfing, and i do the same for the things i do, i.e. my job.
i currently work as a summer camp counselor, and lately have been running into some self-doubt.
i love making the kids happy, but feel so useless and inadequate when they're unhappy. a friend of mine explained to me that it's not my job to make them happy, it is up to them to make themselves happy.
while of course it's my duty to accomodate them, make them feel comfortable and enjoy themselves while guiding them, how does that not include making them happy? or is there a limitation to that?

i think my maternal instincts are perhaps too overbearing..?

No-ones happy 100% of the time

You should channel those thoughts of inadequacy and uselessness back to the kids.

Threaten them with violence if they dont cheer up

pat42 wrote:WHAT!!!! Even nubile surf groupies who want to caress and massage you with coconut oil as you come out of the water after a 5 hour session!!!

I think you'll soon get bored of that scenario Phil.........Trust me

i can see how one would get bored of that quite fast

ive really fallin in love with surfing. Im a begginer but i love it so much. People say im a very fast learner. Im 15 and i guess il see what i want to do when im older. Surfing is taking over my life (somewhat). I'm not good enough yet to love it alot. I ride bmx and i find surfing soo much more fun. I really sucked at biking after doing it for 2 years. Now i convert peopleto make em surf. You know what would be cool, a stay at home job.
I have this idea for a buisness, well actually my mom does and its really good but she just doesnt want to carry through with it. I may just do it. I'm trying to think of a buisness that is only or almost only stay at home. I already tried making a forum and putting ads on it to make money, i failed, only 3 other members joined. I didnt advertize enough

I am starting to wonder if some people on here don't love their hand too much...

Or at least, too often

-doug

dougirwin13 wrote:I am starting to wonder if some people on here don't love their hand too much...

Or at least, too often

-doug

dougirwin13 wrote:I am starting to wonder if some people on here don't love their hand too much...

Or at least, too often

-doug

Ha ha ha ha ...........hand love is the best kind of love

pat42 wrote:

dougirwin13 wrote:I am starting to wonder if some people on here don't love their hand too much...

Or at least, too often

-doug

Ha ha ha ha ...........hand love is the best kind of love

The only kind of love