Surfing Waves

Been surfing for around 10 years. I surf 2-3 times a week in the last 3 years and live arguably 15 mins away from some of the best spots in SoCal. Last time I was in water was probably a month ago. I'll try and get back in again but it's just hard because some of you know that I picked up a onewheel and is so addicted to it. I can shred on land and the zen it gives me is almost as good as riding a perfect glassy wave.

Most of you know every wave is different and it's very hard to master surfing due to the number of variables. There are also variables in onewheel but it is more consistent so it is much easier to get good at it. Riding a onewheel on single track mountain bike trails is like shredding a long wave for miles and miles. I tried get back into surfing about once a month. I'm just not satisfied with that 15 seconds waves where tons of kooks just drops in on you. If the forecast is good, then that 30 seconds wave you share with 10 other surfers is just not cool.

Just so if anyone is interested and lives in US. Onewheel is not cheap and make sure you do have good health insurance. Getting injured is inevitable with a balance board. I'm happy to share more of my experience. I do have to say it definitely improved my surfing, being able to stay on the board and utilize my full body for turns.

"Last time I was in the water was probably a month ago. I'll try and get back in again but it's just hard because some of you know that I picked up a onewheel and is so addicted to it. I can shred on land and the zen it gives me is almost as good as riding a perfect glassy wave."

I understand your frustration with the SoCal crowds but hope you can find enough fun in the water to keep at it once a month. I surfskate more often than I surf because my commute to the coast is over 1.5 hours and because there are some really fun hills where I live. That said, there is just something about figuring out how to ride each wave that keeps me excited year in and year out.

Have fun and stay safe!

Sadly many breaks that I knew and loved along the coast of OZ and through Indonesia, and new breaks in Europe are complete entitled Zoos, I too suffer now from MEH why bother, I can trek off track there are some but they too are being googled into crowd fests :
Central European river waves and their surfers still epitomise care and share……. even with 75 year old river novices

For me falling in the water was always better than on land. But you only need to worry about weather as the land is always there waiting for you.

Howdy y'all. I envy the 15min commute!

Come on, considering where you live, you won't really give up, will you ? Onewheel looks cool but unfortuantely is illegal on my country, which is great at regulating anything. The consequence is lack of insurance, which is a problem. I will probably really give up surfing as I can surf far too infrequently to make any progress, and did it mostly with my daughter who is now mostly living abroad

Oldie wrote: I will probably really give up surfing as I can surf far too infrequently to make any progress, and did it mostly with my daughter who is now mostly living abroad

I still have fun while not making progress. Will you take up a new sport?

Oldie wrote:Come on, considering where you live, you won't really give up, will you ? Onewheel looks cool but unfortuantely is illegal on my country, which is great at regulating anything. The consequence is lack of insurance, which is a problem. I will probably really give up surfing as I can surf far too infrequently to make any progress, and did it mostly with my daughter who is now mostly living abroad

You might get a meet up surf with a Jaffa , hang in there!

BoMan wrote:

Oldie wrote: I will probably really give up surfing as I can surf far too infrequently to make any progress, and did it mostly with my daughter who is now mostly living abroad

I still have fun while not making progress. Will you take up a new sport?

I am a manic golfer and skier since many decades, and do a lot of running and swimming at the side. As I continue to love the water, I may go back to windsurfing. More wind than waves where I live, anyway. As Jaffa can confirm