by deathfrog » Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:59 am
yeah, it mostly sucked...
I finally get down to the beach after the three hour drive, and all the shops are closed so I can't get any wax.
I pull up at bob hall, and I'm thinking, can it get any worse? It's like eight foot breaking at the end of the pier, but it's so disorganized and blown out i'm thinking I just wasted like 60 bucks in gas.
I go over to packery which isn't as bad, so I wax up with warm when I should have had cool and get out to the lineup and realize everyone's paddling sideways, and there's a huge patch of the gnarliest red tide I've ever seen off to my side, and so I stay where I am.
A few minutes later I realize, the patch of red tide that was right next to me is 50 yards behind me, and I'm at the end of the long jetty, getting sucked towards it and out in a rip.
So, I can only go one way, and I start paddling sideways I get into the red tide, and it's like I paddled into a bunch of wasps, it hurt, and it smelled horrible. So I paddle back out of it (now like another 50 yards out) and try to get back in while staying in as little of the red tide as I can, and end up having to paddle like 150 yards back in across infront of the short jetty to make it back in, against the rip.
after like 15 minutes of solid paddling on my shortboard, I'm like scratching as hard as I can to try to get infront of the jetty before I get slammed against it, but a wave sucks out and I'm ontop of this rock with covered with the biggest barnicles I've ever seen, and get drilled into it.
I make it around the side, after being all beaten up, and crawl out ontop of it (it's not very tall for everyone who doesen't know what i"m talking about), and I'm holding on trying not to get washed off, and rest at the same time.
Eventually these two dudes walk out on it and help me off, while my legs are all cut up and I'm exausted from paddling for like 15 mins straight fighting chop and I get out.
So I make it back to the beach, find my board (I took off my leash because I didn't want to deal with it) and have to drive over to like a gas station and get some peroxide to wash out all the cuts I got so they heal, and I get back and just try to catch insiders all day, because I got all paranoid the first time.
but yeah, it was windy, like, 25-35 knot on/sideshores, just horrible.
I still had fun though.