Surfing Waves

Howdy folks,

I'm mostly a shortboarder that rides thrusters. Recently, I've taken to surfing an 8' performance mini-log in the small south shore Oahu winter conditions. I don't always have the time or guts to drive to the North Shore

Surfing a longer board is new to me and I've been enjoying the experience. I stared with a Greenough 4-A 7-inch fin, with 3.25 side bites. Then I moved to a Futures 6.5 Cutaway with the same 3.25 sides.

I'm an average surfer, but I noticed with the 6.5 cutaway I could pivot way faster, but when I dropped into a close-out I didn't have the drive to bottom turn and make it to the face. I feel like maybe I did with the 7-inch Greenough fin? Does a larger back fin with more base increase drive?

A really good performance longboarder saw my problem, and told me to put in bigger side fins to increase drive. I wish I'd of asked him more about fin set-up, but then he paddled in and I only see him every few months. He's a 40 something lad that surfs 7'6 to 6'6 single fins in a way that would rival Devon Hoard. Maybe I should just get bigger sides and call it a day? Buy maybe there's another answer...

Wondering, how do I got more drive? I like to pull into close-outs, and bottom turn around waves, shoot up high, then pull a big carve or round house but back. I surf my min-log like a shortboard. I can't cross-step.

Should I get bigger sides? Should I use a rear fin in my 2+1 with more base? Should I move the rear fins back further in the box? I usually place the rear fin in the front of the box, which is just slightly behind the front 2 fins. I've noticed in my thruster the rear fin is much further back than in my min-log. Also, what would happen if I rode my 8'mini log with the same Stamps keel fins I ride my 5'6 fish with? Would I get tones of drive, high-line with ease, drive around all the sections? Would I just fall when I tired to turn? I almost did that today but I chickened out.

Advise appreciated.

I have noticed that it’s the total surface area of that he find that creates drive which is why I surf quads. I have no answers for your fin choices except try it and see. Others will hopefully be able to help you with your questions

If you have a few different sets of fins, try the mix and match method, and with the centre fin at varying positions in the box,
Your total fin base will produce different results depending on where you place the centre fin, , your driving foot over the fins or towards one side bite will be like fine tuning....... which suits how you put drive together.
Another way to,tune is to single fin it at various positions in the box then at a good point add the side bites of varied sizes.


Have fun gain knowledge about your surfing!

I usually use FCS GX, instead of Gl, which are 3.8 high instead of 2.8. For bigger days it makes a difference in the way you bite into the wave. I think on Futures they sell F365 instead of F325, can't remember, but there is a slightly bigger option

Where are you surfing on the South side ? Doesn’t seem to be Diamond Head or Rock piles if it’s all closeouts.

I would recommend you increase the sides by a lot. If you have FCS, go with MR.TX sides in Glassflex. If you have Futures, go with the T-1 in Thermotech. For the center fin, fin a 2.5 by Island Fin Designs. ( Aloha Board Shop should have it in stock ). If you surf your longer board like a short board, you’ll love this setup.

Thanks for the recommendations. waikikikichan, they're not all closeouts. I've just been practicing pulling into closeouts and trying to bottom turn around the closeout section. I do surf Rockpiles sometimes, Diamond Head rarely. I'm most often at Bowls and/or Concessions.

I tired the twin keel fins in my 8' board today. A little hard to bottom turn, but the speed and high-lining were off the charts!