Surfing Waves

Ok, so today was literally my 3rd time on a skateboard. I know you have to fall, it's part of the game. But I also know there's better ways to do stuff. So here's the question

Is there a way to keep the board going even though it hit a microscopic pebble?
I hit some tiny little rock and the board stops and I dont, and off I go. No biggie, just want to learn to ride better. Should I be going faster? Anything else? Weight distribution? Or does the board always stop when nanoparticles are on the ground in front of it?

Long story short, get wider, softer wheels.

Take a look at the Diameter and Durometer areas of the Skate Wheels Reference Guide.
https://i.redd.it/pwju0oyut2e31.png

If you're making a downhill run, go just after the street sweeper cleans the road. Some cities post their sweeping schedule online. https://cityofnapa.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=9802f9de0e104fe4924d18c887d3f1f5

Boman
Thanks for getting back to me. I had the guy in the shop set it up as a cruiser so it's got pretty fat squishy wheels. Ill post a pic here soon when I quit being lazy.

I was mostly asking if there's any adjustments to how I'm skating. I'm very new so now is the time to change what I'm doing so I don't get in the habit of doing stuff wrong

Just in general if you lower your center of gravity it increases the force required to knock you over but it also decreases your ability to adjust to forces so somewhere between laying on the board and standing straight up is going to be better. Where exactly that is depends on how your body works but crouching down some more might help in theory. In practical matters if you stay crouched you will need stronger legs. Not a skateboarder but used to be when I was younger.

Here's my setup. Partly showing I think I have the correct wheel as bo said, and partly to show off my new toy. I'm very excited about it.

Old man, thanks, I'll work on crouching a little more as I practice, seems logical.

78a is one of the softest durometers. 60mm isn’t that small. So I find it strange a nano pebble could stop you.

Are you sure you’re not getting wheel bite ? Even on 60mm you might need 1/8” ( or even 1/4” depending on your weight ) to raise up the trucks. Especially since you’re using a trick deck with no wheel reliefs.

waikikikichan wrote:78a is one of the softest durometers. 60mm isn’t that small. So I find it strange a nano pebble could stop you.

Are you sure you’re not getting wheel bite ? Even on 60mm you might need 1/8” ( or even 1/4” depending on your weight ) to raise up the trucks. Especially since you’re using a trick deck with no wheel reliefs.

Chan,
When you say wheel bite are you saying the deck is hitting the wheel as in a turn or a trick? I'm still too new to know the lingo
If that's what you're asking then definitely no, I was going in a straight line at a slow walking pace.

I did just pull the board out and lean it way over and it is possible to lean it enough for the deck to contact the wheel. Should I look into buying a spacer? Will that change the handling in any way? And is it something I even need to worry about at my skill level?

Thanks man

If you plan to go only dead straight ahead then no need for risers.

I’m surprised a shop would do “cruiser set up” without taking in to account the wheel clearance. I can already see you’re scrapping , while relatively only going straight. Imagine when you get your skills up to carve on it.

The negative to risers is it Raises your center of gravity. Which increases the torsional forces on the bushing. So you might have to go harder to tune your ride/sway if the deck.

I didn't realize how much the board leans even when you're not really carving. How high do you think I should go? You mentioned 1/4". Is there a good way to measure or is it a best guess kind of thing? I can't tell what the maximum travel is unless there's a deck on it for me to flex

Edit; now that I look I can see the spots where the wheel is contacting the deck. Good eye bro

You can’t just ad risers, because you’re going to have to buy longer mounting bolts. Fun fun fun.

Ya I found them as a kit. I figured I'd get 1/8" and add 1/4 turn to the trucks and see how it feels. Think I should go taller?

SnakePlissken wrote:I was mostly asking if there's any adjustments to how I'm skating. I'm very new so now is the time to change what I'm doing so I don't get in the habit of doing stuff wrong

If you can't avoid a rock patch temporarily shift your weight backward so the front wheels take most of the shock while you remain control from the back of the board.

It's also really important to know how to fall!

I just started skating too. I would hang up on the smallest pebble if I went slower than walking speed. So going faster than that is a must. I made a video of my first attempts using a Surfskate skate board -

I was going slow. Makes sense.

I'm confused about something else since you mentioned it. People here talk like there is a brand called surfskate, which I haven't been able to find. All I found is that a surfskate is a type of board (or truck) made by several different manufacturers under different names. Can anybody clear this up for me? I'm thinking of buying one

SnakePlissken wrote: All I found is that a surfskate is a type of board (or truck) made by several different manufacturers under different names. Can anybody clear this up for me? I'm thinking of buying one

I ridden and sold almost every type of surf skateboards on the market,
Carver
Carve board
Smoothstar
Gravity Thruster
Surfskate
even Flowboard ( which has 14 wheels ! )
The best I've found and what I use to teach my students is Carver. I did not like the Surfskate, especially the rocket ship looking one, the Jaime O'brien model was better though. But I would recommend getting the basics down on a "regular"' board first, THEN buy a carving front rotating truck surf skateboard.

LearningToSurf wrote: I made a video of my first attempts using a Surfskate skate board -

Watch what your front left hand does when you turn backside. It just drops down and locks to the hip. If you want to improve on your backside turns, you need to Open up the palm to the sky like a waiter holding a tray and have the front hand lead the body ( and of course look way thru the turn with your eyes )

waikikikichan wrote:The best I've found and what I use to teach my students is Carver. I did not like the Surfskate, especially the rocket ship looking one, the Jaime O'brien model was better though. But I would recommend getting the basics down on a "regular"' board first, THEN buy a carving front rotating truck surf skateboard.

I like that advice and that's exactly what I'll do. I haven't got to ride as much as I would like anyway. Just for clarification, all I have to do is change the front truck, keep the same rear truck? I imagine id have to get compatible size or something. Doesn't really matter, it will be a while.

SnakePlissken wrote: Just for clarification, all I have to do is change the front truck, keep the same rear truck? I

Technically you could as you have brand new wheels, bearing and deck. But depending if you find a closeout priced last year model or a lightly used board on ebay or such, it might be worth getting the whole set up.
** remember the riser plates for the front Carver trucks are not like standard ones so you'll need to buy those also **

waikikikichan wrote:

SnakePlissken wrote: Just for clarification, all I have to do is change the front truck, keep the same rear truck? I

Technically you could as you have brand new wheels, bearing and deck. But depending if you find a closeout priced last year model or a lightly used board on ebay or such, it might be worth getting the whole set up.
** remember the riser plates for the front Carver trucks are not like standard ones so you'll need to buy those also **

Thanks man, I'll keep an eye out. I found some off brand stuff, but I may as well wait till I find the right one. Truth is I haven't had the chance to take it out in like a week

Oh btw my risers showed up today. I'll let you know how that goes.