Surfing Waves

hi guys
i'm just curious, what was it that got you into surfing in the first place and what is it that you love the most about surfing?
for me - I was doing a bit of PR work for the local surf school so it just made sense to give it a go seeing as i was pushing it, and the thing i love most about surfing...um there are at least three things...doing something new for the first time ie the first time i stood, the first time i went out the back and cought a clean wave...the huge sense of acheivement that comes with it and secondly the tight surf community where i'm from - all these guys i see out surfing always approach me if they see me in town or in a cafe or at school and we instantly have something to talk about, even if we don't know each others names! its a bit like belonging to an exclusive little club!

my mate asked me if i wanted to go surfing and i said alright, after that i was hooked.

The aspects i like most are
1) The solitude and peacefulness when you are in the water
2) the fact that surfing is so difficult and when it all comes together its just made it all worth while

What I love most about surfing is that you can never have the same wave twice!

I love the fact that it doesn't make a difference whether you're mail or female, you can 'play in the same arena' because it's not about out-performing another person, it's about you and the wave.

A lot of sports are all about winning, about beating someone, about being better than someone, but surfing is about pushing yourself, doing what makes you feel good in a unique environment.

Sure surfing has competitions, but unlike skateboarding where everytime you go on a ramp it is the same and if you get something wrong, you can try again, with surfing if you mess something up, you can't go back and do it again. The playing field can never be level because every wave is different.

If you miss a tube, or a perfect opportunity for a floater, you can't go kick out and say, "right, I'll try that again, and pull in earlier" because the moment and the wave have gone. In effect you are only competing against yourself and the sea.

That's what I love most about it. The only person you can out-perform is yourself last time you were out!

Sinista

the sound of the surf when you get up for a dawnie....maybe the feeling of pure acceleration as you take the drop...maybe the feeling that comes with riding an energy pulse that's travelled thousands of miles to come and meet you.... seeing the sun through the lip just before you duckdive....having the local dolphins come to check you out... the blast of spray when a wave passes you out back....the smell of fresh wax...a good big fry up after a dawn raid... i could go on for hours! :D :D :D

ITs the only thing that balances me out. For years I was always tetchy and stroppy. Just sitting out back i find clarity and forget everything...

I get stroppy and pissy when its flat... denied my surf :p

lol, same. i some times go out just for a paddle and for a bit of salt water immersion when its xxxxx. its been solid 4 foot-plus the last couple of days and i have a 2000 word essay due tommorow morning ( i have 500 words..), so finding thoughts of my favourite break very distracting. went out yesterday and broke a fin, so won't be out for at least a couple of days. feels like being grounded.

because after a primo 4 hour session at Blackhead on a crisp cool off-shore typical Dunedin April day, with a 4-6 foot ground swell running and I've had the best, most exhausting session in months, it's 9pm and I'm about to bail to bed cause I'm so exhausted,...and tomorrow...it's going to all happen again.
Yea.

I remember being about 8 or 9 and going into a big surf shop and seing all the boards and photos and thinking how amazing it looked and how impossible it was for me to access, little did I know........
A big plus is being out with nature in an element that most people have a great fear of, I guess that is where the adrenaline comes into it. Dawn surfs with your friends in good surf and the stories after...... The way I would simply sum it up is STOKE, pure and simple.

Ozzie

Hello I started surfing becuase I wanted to do a documentary on Surfing. I was down by the walll at the beach Last year and watching the surfers and thinking to my self, that looks like so much fun I was amazing my it. I decided to do a documeteary on Surf girls. I met a couple of girls and now great friends. Since I was doing this documentary I decided to go out there and try it myself so that I have a more understanding. Now I am in my own movie as well 'The Perfect Wave" a surf girl storie-is the title of my doc.

I love sufing because it is chalenging and I have never ever done anything like this before in my life. And I hope to become a great surfer oneday.

Thats my stoyie hope you like it.

Surfbratt

I like surfing most because of the image and all that designer surf gear you get to wear. Always best to make sure I have a shiny surfboard propped up next to me when I sunbathe so everyone knows. Tip; don't use wax it dulls the board. Not a fan of getting wet though because I hear people that go in the sea get eaten by sharks.

:)

what i like bout surfing?

THE CHIX 8)

The dumb spaced out smile you wear after a great session.

:D when u are out there, when u are out there u don't think about the negative stuff, u just go and have fun, i find peace in the ocean i know it sounds cheezy, plus it's nice to see dolphins swim pass u

I had tryed lots of other sports, from about the age of fourteen till about 22 I had spent most of my time rock climbing and trying to travel and climb. all over the states then one year I went to stay with my brother in san deigo and stayed for the whole winter quit everything else, gave up every job I got, and lived outa my car just to float in the next set,and probably if ya didnt grow up by a break ya probably would have to, To surf well enough to call yourself any kinda surfer.but dont let that discourage you thats how I justified calling myself a surfer .I realy did not say I was asurfer till I pulled into a couple of way overhead neck snapers but that was my trip. Truth is I think your probably a surfer when you beleve you can surf and that might even be before you catch your first wave but till then your gonna be called a gumby,kook,funboarder or shark bait. Just keep beleving in what your doing and be willing to sacrifice and it will come.I do wish the waves would pick up writing is fun and all but I'd rather be surfing.

how did i get started.... hmm one day i woke up and said i wanted to surf... so i did.

what i love most... hmm i have to say when your looking down the face of a double overhead wave, the sense of terror and excitment you get, i loooove that.... thats why someday i hope to be a big wave surfer in hawaii or mavericks.

the feeling when you are so stressed because of school, friends, or just about anything that totally has you bummed and you paddle out and your suddenly balanced. i love just watching the waves come in and knowing that at that moment its just me and the waves....aaaahhhh....i feel better already lol.

toasty are you for real???

living within 1 minute walk of a beach for my entire life was pretty much expected that i would surf

haha i swear thats still worse than the babe of the day post ..i love surfing because i dunno i just do...its unnexplainable, sometimes i dont even know why i keep doing it, especially after a 10 second hold under..but once your up and on a clean wave everything seems to come to a halt, i concentrate on nothing else but my surfing and its so rewarding because i know ive accomplished something that many people can only dream of doing. that and the chicks

From a chicks point of view i like the fact that i can do my own this with out all the bitchness of girls giveing you dirty looks.(unless it's there home break of coarse) I can go out by myself there are no hassels as guys are generally nice to you cause you aren't a threat to them.
And i definately agree about challenging yourself. I so hate sports were everything is about winning. Its just nice to be out there and doing something that only you can appreciate the hard yards you have put in. The satisfaction of every small improvement is truely worth it.

Simply put, there are two feelings in this world that can't be matched.

1. an orgasm
2. riding a wave