Question about riding big waves

[LostAtSea]

I was just thinking about the rush it must be to take off on a big, steep face and carve up a towering wall. I'm not there yet, but one day I hope to get be able to get into sizeable surf.

I was wondering what is the difference in skill set for bigger surf - is it the speed of the wave? is the timing different? is the same as a smaller wave, but with bigger consequence?

What is the skill set that a big wave surfer has that a waist/head high surfer doesn't?

Or - what is the difference between riding waves and riding big waves?

Cheers

[Tudeo]

Big waves for me are 1.5oh until 2oh, bigger then that I don't bother, unless they are 'soft'. The big difference for me is the movement of the water around the line-up, it makes it much harder to get into position and not getting caught inside.
Also catching the wave is much harder because bigger waves move faster, so u must paddle harder to get in, or take the wave more critical/late. Making a late drop in a big wave is scary, to say the least.
So to make paddling and catching easier u want to take a bigger board, more volume and longer. But the water pulls much harder on bigger boards during wipeouts. So there u go..

[oldmansurfer]

Best way to approach it is to gradually increase the size. The power of a wave increases exponentially with the height so the bigger you get a smaller difference makes a bigger difference in power so the difference between a 2 foot wave and a 4 foot wave is quantitatively much less than the difference between a 10 foot wave and a 12 foot wave even though it's only 2 feet difference. Things that help are good paddling skills and a good fast board and commitment. If you are paddling for a bigger wave you need to commit fully to it without hesitation. This means either you are crazy and going to die or you have confidence from riding smaller waves that were close in size to the bigger waves. Breath holding becomes much more significant as you will be held under longer. Learning to wipe out without getting hurt is important. You need to be relaxed but aware of where you are where the bottom is, where your board is, where the wave is and sometimes where the shoreline is and be able to react to all of that if needed. Being able to dive deep and equalize the pressure in your ears is important in really big waves. Having buddies to help you out is probably a good idea although once it gets big enough there is only so much others can do so you need to prepare yourself. Imagine this your worst wipeout then imagine that magnified 100 to 10,000 times greater force........if you can then that is what will happen if you make a mistake surfing a big wave. Big wave riders are willing to take that risk and that is probably the biggest difference

[LostAtSea]

Thanks guys - Makes sense that paddling, positioning, confidence are key. Would any of you say that once you're on your feet the hardest part is over?

[oldmansurfer]

There are many different kinds of waves. Some you take off and it rapidly get smaller so essentially after the drop and bottom turn it's over but for some waves that is just the beginning. I think for most bigger waves there is a bit more than just the drop and bottom turn. The bigger waves I have ridden once you stand there is still a question as to whether you will reach the bottom to make a bottom turn or take a horrendous pounding and once you make the bottom there is still a question as to whether or not you will take a horrendous pounding or get to a safe place to cutout.

[Tudeo]

Would any of you say that once you're on your feet the hardest part is over?

Depends on the shape of the wave. If the wave breaks fast u must make enough speed to beat the sections, but those waves are incredible exciting to ride.

[Big H]

Got to have timing, positioning, paddle with full commitment, have had the inner talk prior to the wave which in short is charge and don't look back.....gotta have a pair. As long as you talk yourself into it adequately and charge with full commitment, not muck different than any other wave. Be prepared for chop down the face....feels different when you are at speed....be ready to hold your breath as well.......

[waikikikichan]

what is the difference between riding waves and riding big waves?

Like OMS alluded to, it's not so much the RIDE but the WIPEOUT that's different.

What is the skill set that a big wave surfer has that a waist/head high surfer doesn't?

My good friend is a big wave charger, he has no problem with 25 foot waves on the Northshore ( that's Hawaiian scale ). But he is not very good in 2.5 foot waves in Waikiki.

[LostAtSea]

My good friend is a big wave charger, he has no problem with 25 foot waves on the Northshore ( that's Hawaiian scale ). But he is not very good in 2.5 foot waves in Waikiki.

Interesting!

[oldmansurfer]

Originally surfing big waves has been just a straight ride down the line. You take off bottom turn and ride down the line turning only to go faster. But gradually that has changed and now lots of surfers go for the tube ride and do turns and even more recently Kai Lenny who also does airs on big waves. But still mostly it's about speed and big wide turns. Small waves require quick small turns although I guess you could just do big wide turns like a beginner. Having good small wave skills doesn't make you good at large waves or vice versa however it's a good starting place. Look at Kelly Slater and John Florence both have won the Eddy and the world title. Of course you might consider some of the waves they ride on the world tour big waves but they aren't really big and most of the world tour surfers don't do big waves. Kelly Slater is such a trip When he was a grom he once surfed the inside shorebreak in a contest because he was afraid to go out when every other competitor went out and now he goes out in massively huge waves that likely most of those competitors haven't ever experienced.

[oldmansurfer]

As far as the experience of riding a big wave vs riding a small wave. For me at least when I cut out on a small wave I might feel pretty good and stoked but cutting out from a big wave is like I was never alive before that moment and was like that for each wave. I guess that if you do it enough it becomes less dramatic but I never did enough.

[LostAtSea]

As far as the experience of riding a big wave vs riding a small wave. For me at least when I cut out on a small wave I might feel pretty good and stoked but cutting out from a big wave is like I was never alive before that moment and was like that for each wave. I guess that if you do it enough it becomes less dramatic but I never did enough.

My imagination tells me its a rush! Thanks for that insight. I've been out on a few big days, but never within striking distance of a good one. I am not there yet, but watching surfers catch some bigger waves, anc the speed really inspires me.

[oldmansurfer]

Speed is important. You need a fast board, You also need to know how to make your board go fast. I worked on my speed on smaller waves. It was sort of by accident because there was a really fast breaking wave at the beach I used to surf when the conditions were right. The other surfers used to ride it to get tubed but it would closeout on them. I challenged myself to make that wave. Each board has a speed that it want to go at. If you are cruising along a wave at least overhead at about mid wave that is the fastest that you will go without turning. Each board will go at a different speed but with speed turns you can make it go faster however each board also has a top speed which is the fastest it can go on a wave. You will probably reach that speed on a big enough wave without turning. Just making the drop will max out the speed relative to the water and if the board and you aren't fast enough you will do an airdrop. If you watch the big wave surfers they often are able to keep surfing after an airdrop takeoff because they do it so much. But once you make a bottom turn then you really get some speed well depending on the wave. If it's choppy you really can't make much of a turn. I love going fast and I guess that was my forte long ago. I would make waves that no one else was making. In my case there were so many things I did that prepared me for bigger surf. I practiced breath holding but not for big surf it was just a way that I challenged myself. I practiced going fast but not for big waves again just challenging myself. I was really good at wiping out but not for big waves it's because I bodysurfed and paipo boarded prior to surfing. I used to skin dive but not for big wave training, it was just something I enjoyed. Anyway gradually bigger waves is the way to do it. The difference in power between a 12 foot wave and a 14 foot wave is much greater than that between a 10 foot wave and a 12 foot wave so easy does it.

[LostAtSea]

Speed is important. You need a fast board, You also need to know how to make your board go fast. I worked on my speed on smaller waves. It was sort of by accident because there was a really fast breaking wave at the beach I used to surf when the conditions were right. The other surfers used to ride it to get tubed but it would closeout on them. I challenged myself to make that wave. Each board has a speed that it want to go at. If you are cruising along a wave at least overhead at about mid wave that is the fastest that you will go without turning. Each board will go at a different speed but with speed turns you can make it go faster however each board also has a top speed which is the fastest it can go on a wave. You will probably reach that speed on a big enough wave without turning. Just making the drop will max out the speed relative to the water and if the board and you aren't fast enough you will do an airdrop. If you watch the big wave surfers they often are able to keep surfing after an airdrop takeoff because they do it so much. But once you make a bottom turn then you really get some speed well depending on the wave. If it's choppy you really can't make much of a turn. I love going fast and I guess that was my forte long ago. I would make waves that no one else was making. In my case there were so many things I did that prepared me for bigger surf. I practiced breath holding but not for big surf it was just a way that I challenged myself. I practiced going fast but not for big waves again just challenging myself. I was really good at wiping out but not for big waves it's because I bodysurfed and paipo boarded prior to surfing. I used to skin dive but not for big wave training, it was just something I enjoyed. Anyway gradually bigger waves is the way to do it. The difference in power between a 12 foot wave and a 14 foot wave is much greater than that between a 10 foot wave and a 12 foot wave so easy does it.

That's good stuff OMS - thanks for sharing. So a faster board (not just for paddling) is a must.

[waikikikichan]

So JJG, what boards are Faster and what boards are Slower ? What does Speed matter if there's no Control. "Do you want me to make you a Fast board or a board you can make go fast ?" Is what Ben Aipa told me.
What's better heavier or lighter ? Full nose or pulled in nose ? What type of boards did they ride at Pipeline ............. in the 60's ?

[oldmansurfer]

"Do you want me to make you a Fast board or a board you can make go fast ?" Is what Ben Aipa told me.

Both that is what I would have said long ago, but I wouldn't be buying a longboard. I had a 7'2" diamond tail single fin that was incredibly fast and I could make it go incredibly faster I actually rode it on big waves too.

[LostAtSea]

So JJG, what boards are Faster and what boards are Slower ? What does Speed matter if there's no Control. "Do you want me to make you a Fast board or a board you can make go fast ?" Is what Ben Aipa told me.
What's better heavier or lighter ? Full nose or pulled in nose ? What type of boards did they ride at Pipeline ............. in the 60's ?

Point taken. I have a local shaper that I put all my trust in - he has an excellent rep with the locals and I really get on well with the board he made for me. Any questions about what I should be riding I put in his hands.

I was out today and took off on a few that were big (for me) OH.

I got into one and had the ride of my life. Probably didnt look like much from the beach, unfortunately a few attempts later I was humbled. I was hit in the ankle while going over the falls. I recieved a few stitches (the fin caught me) and my ankle is swollen up like a grapefruit. Im off work for a week or so and out of the water.

That good wave though....

[oldmansurfer]

I just heard an interview with a guy who is writing a book about big wave riders and he says they all seem to share certain characteristics. One is that they can take the experience of riding a big wave and instead of reacting with fear they react by focusing on the whole experience with all of their senses. The other is they remain calm in situations that would make others scream and fight and struggle.

[LostAtSea]

(Sorry all, I intended this to be in Surf Chat)

Thanks OMS.

It seems I have a lot of time to reflect on my injury. Probably about a week. My employer is freaking out - whatever.

My positioning/ wave selection has to be better. I surf in shifty beachies and I have to be a lot smarter if I'm going to venture into bigger surf. There was an old. salty dude out there making it look easy. His positioning was perfect and he never broke a sweat.

Me, on the other hand, took a few good beatings including taking off too late on a good one and going through the spin cycle longer than I'm used too. That's when the board whacked me solid in the ankle fin first. It could have been way worse - just a sore swollen ankle and a few stitches.

The good one I caught was a breakthrough wave for me (I'm a beginner 2yrs in but I'm slowly getting better)

knowing it can be done without injury by watching ol' surfer o' the sea lets me know I have to surf with my brain a lot more. Impatience is a killer.

[LostAtSea]

I wish I had someone to video me. I could post my big wave progress here and you could all have a laugh watching me get pummeled - and high fiving me for the small victories along the way. That would be fun.