Surfing Waves

Got the bike and board in the car and the forecast is 3-5ft from behind the wave.
Already done the biking part of the day and now time to get in the water!

Benjl, get out there quickly and surf it, but unless you can ride the back of the wave forget the nonsense of back of wave height.

BTW the Picture of whatis on offer looks good.

That Dropper Post sure comes in handy, getting the bike under the board. Can't see what kind of forks you riding.

Sadly it was an absolute mission to get out back, spent about 1.5hrs getting pounded by whitewash and never made it! The ocean was churning a lot and seemed to empty out heaps and then fill back up again.
Several times I was probably within 15m of making it and then the sea would empty back out and set after set of hollow and heavy waves would smash me back. Very frustrating, I just kept seeming to be at the wrong place at the wrong time.
Got a couple of waves on that new 6'1 I put some photos up of a few weeks back. Went nicely and seemed to offer a good balance of speed and turning. Can't wait to try it out again!

Had a blast on the bike though so that was good! First time out yesterday on my newer commencal meta sx, has 160mm travel all round and fox kashima ctd front and back.
My other yellow one is basically the same but 170mm marzocchi 55 front work and has carbon wheels which I'm trying to swap over at the mo.
I've actually got 2x commencal meta SX's at the moment (getting a bit more pedal-friendly than my past Dh bikes).
I attached a pic of my last Dh beast, absolutely flew but not very user friendly for general trails etc.