Them 'random videos'

[Naeco78]

[oldmansurfer]

I totally love watching Andy surf. He was one of a kind

[oldmansurfer]

Malia is from the same island as me. While I haven't met her unless when she was only a year or two old I have spent numerous hours in the surf with her father.

if the video doesn't work you can find it herehttp://www.maliamanuel.com/

[oldmansurfer]

Another Nate and Koa podcast

[oldmansurfer]

Koa and Nate talk about helmets and surf photographers

[oldmansurfer]

Which one are you?

[Naeco78]

Good list. I feel like i've met lots of those out in the water. Gotta admit I'm probably most like the Silver Surfer.

One type that i see a lot but didnt get mentioned... the guys that only paddle out when they see a bikini on a surfboard. They have no clue that they just paddled around everyone else for wave priority and then sit right next to the surfer girl like they just took an open seat at the pub. They try to chat it up with her and never actually paddle for a single wave.. not sure if they even know how to surf or if its just another way to try to get numbers. And then they disappear just as quickly

[Geezer]

If I had to categorize myself I’d say sliver surfer and multi-board surfer and the single spot surfer. Part of the fun for me is choosing s board before heading out like my wife chooses shoes. I surf several breaks but rarely go outside of those that are in the rota, and at each of those places I park in the same spot, follow the same footprints and routines I always do at each of those locations. I’ve just made a resolution while writing this to try 5 new spots this year.

Incredibly sexist part about the female surfer who rips that Incan’t get with. Around here its common enough that they should just be considered a surfer who rips; its never a mental qualifier for me and I’d never underscore “oh they rip” with “and it’s a woman”.

Don’t really see the bikini chaser too much here either. Figure most are spoilt for choice; just doen’t really go in much here that I see…..plenty of venues for that on land I guess. I do see alot of that amongst the surf camp crowd but thats more of an ongoing thing they brought with them to the breaks in their camp groups borne from whatever they do when not surfing I guess. Have seen it mostly around canggu, but then that’s the scene there, in and out of the water.

[oldmansurfer]

Episode 10. I am a variety of those surfers. Definitely a single board surfer while i don't only surf a single board if I switch boards I stick to the same board for a while

[oldmansurfer]

I can relate so much to what they say

[oldmansurfer]

https://youtu.be/Kre__oQSRM4 This is what bodysurfing is like in good waves with people who know what they are doing

[Naeco78]

That looks really fun. Ive been wanting to get more into bodysurfing and alternative boards recently. The more I'm at the beach.. the more i wanna get back into that stuff. Any suggestions for a handboard?

[oldmansurfer]

I am not a fan of handboards. The bigger the better but also the bigger the more difficult to use (unless you just go to paipo board) and your hand will work about as well anyway (but not as good as paipo board). The guys who I like are riding on their backs which I also never did when I bodysurfed but the best body surfer at the beach I was at was a girl named Jan who rode on her back likewise. Up till now I thought she was just doing that because it kept her bikini top from creating drag or getting ripped off by the wave. The guys who do the best in this video are positioning themselves higher up on the wave to make the faster breaking portions. So I guess my recommendation is if you want to try a handboard get one just a little bigger than your hand. Because that way you might be able to still use that hand to paddle with. I guess though if you're only riding small waves you should be able to catch them just with your fins. When I was bodysurfing you had to make your own or borrow one from the other bodysurfers. By the way all of those bodysurfers have been doing it for years so don't expect to duplicate what they do immediately

[oldmansurfer]

There are two things that putting your hand out to the bottom of you does. One is it can help to provide a little speed by giving you lift. The other it can help you position higher in the wave which will result in you going faster. If you use a handboard it noticeably helps you go faster but it also handicaps you for catching the wave because you won't be able to paddle well with a handboard. You can use your hand without a handboard and some of those guys are doing that but it doesn't have as much of a speed boost. The bigger the handboard the faster you will go but the harder it will be to catch waves. On waves the size of those it will handicap your ability to catch waves noticeably so those guys are pretty good to do it with handboards. But if you want to go really fast just get a paipo board and the right one of those will do circles around those bodysurfers. The only reason they are doing so well is the wave is not very fast so they are able to keep up with it. This is a fantastic break for bodysurfers. I have only had a handful of waves bodysurfing where I got in the tube and came out.

[Naeco78]

Yeah I mostly just catch closeouts but that's fun anyway when the waves aren't that great for surfing or just on a quick lunch break. That dude going over the falls at the 2min mark is usually more my style haha. I've never tried a paipo board or even seen here on the east coast but they look super fun. Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll probably just go without the handboard for now.. the waves here are usually kinda dumpy so probably wouldnt make too much of a difference

[oldmansurfer]

Here's a video of bodysurfing big waves. There are several instances of bodysurfers shooting up out of the back of a wave after it broke. It's one way to go through the wave. If you're swimming like a maniac to get out before the wave breaks but find yourself going up the face of the wave and it's going to break just keep swimming up and you will punch through the back and shoot up into the air. You can do this on a surfboard but surfers rarely do this, I guess because they work hard to not get into that position whereas with bodysurfing you can also swim for the bottom. https://youtu.be/GorkfAJf_Oc?si=4RfXezt9g3WF57BB

[oldmansurfer]

My friend Titus has suffered a brain aneurism. I hope he can get back to surfing

[oldmansurfer]

Titus talking about when he broke his femur at Waimea bay

[oldmansurfer]

The new age of surfing. This is the son of big wave surfer Shane Dorian. He's only 14 but quite good. His surfing has a flow between maneuvers. Barring injuries he'll be competing with the best at some point.

[oldmansurfer]

Short surf video

https://youtu.be/1GdHn5K1xpE?si=HTje4B1jPqdPxVCi