Them 'random videos'

[oldmansurfer]

How Bethany Hamilton does it.

[BoMan]

The popup @ 2:16 reveals how flexible her back, hips and legs are, and how she uses the drop to open space between the board and her body.

[oldmansurfer]

Honolua bay 1976
https://vimeo.com/76735948

[oldmansurfer]

I have surfed this break a few times on better days than this

[oldmansurfer]

This is a break I have surfed a few times. I surfed it many more times further out in the area that breaks in front of the cliff. Used to surf there with no leash (there were no leashes). This break is sometimes really nice and tubing, not so much on this day

[Naeco78]

Honolua bay 1976 https://vimeo.com/76735948https://vimeo.com/76735948

Thanks that's awesome to see the old single fin shortboards at Honolua Bay. I surfed there about 20yrs ago on a small day but it was still such an amazing experience. Can't imagine how nice it must be on a day like that.

[oldmansurfer]

I don't recall ever surfing this break but it's as far away from where I live as you can get by car.

[oldmansurfer]

I surfed this break a few times back in the days before leashes. There used to be a shipwreck on the beach and the "beach" was mostly rocks or boulders. I often used the board I made myself from scratch because it had a huge ding in it already from a friend dropping it on the cement before it made it to the beach. Prior to that I used to paipo board here

[oldmansurfer]

Philosophy from Gerry Lopez (Mr Pipeline)

[agus123]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7OgIMMRc4

[oldmansurfer]

Brian Keaulana's story

[oldmansurfer]

surfing big waves with john john and koa

[oldmansurfer]

[oldmansurfer]

The swerll was big but not at the right angle apparently however you can't see the break from the beach so this is only what you can see

[oldmansurfer]

outer reef Oahu swell seems pretty good

[oldmansurfer]

https://vimeo.com/502779984

[oldmansurfer]

One of these guys is 72 years old and still doing this kind of stuff. The dogs names are Charlie and Lucy

[oldmansurfer]

It's snowing in Hawaii

[Naeco78]

It's snowing in Hawaii

Remember the H3O series back in the 90's? Buttons was a co-host and I remember him snowboarding and surfing in Hawaii in the same day, for one of the episodes. Good stuff. Amazing how drastically the conditions can change in such a small area.

[oldmansurfer]

It's a full length movie about surfing