Them 'random videos'

[oldmansurfer]

This is a break that I haven't ever surfed on the opposite side of the island

[oldmansurfer]

I have surfed this break many times this size or bigger

[oldmansurfer]

I have surfed this break larger than this a couple times

[oldmansurfer]

This is a break that I used to bodyboard and eventually surfed many many times. Tricky to surf once it get bigger but I have surfed it on 9 foot days (about 18 foot faces).

[oldmansurfer]

From William Finnegan author of Barbarian days

[oldmansurfer]

What goes through your mind when you surf?

[oldmansurfer]

This break I only surfed once that I can recall around 4 to 6 foot faces but it's known for fast breaking steep tubing waves.
It breaks during the summer on the south side of the island

[oldmansurfer]

This break I never surfed but I did go out nearby on a not too great of a day.

[oldmansurfer]

I haven't ever surfed this break although it's close to my home

[oldmansurfer]

I used to surf here regularly for a while when I lived about a quarter mile from the break. There are two breaks or more breaks in the video the one with the buoy in the video is one I rarely surfed I would go to the middle of the bay on days like this

[Naeco78]

I used to surf here regularly for a while when I lived about a quarter mile from the break. There are two breaks or more breaks in the video the one with the buoy in the video is one I rarely surfed I would go to the middle of the bay on days like this

Whoa that looks like a heavy takeoff. Most of the rides started with an air drop. Looks like a place you wanna catch on the right tide
Great videos! Thanks for sharing

[oldmansurfer]

That break can be wedgey. It takes the right swell for it to break at all and a good one for me to consider going out because it breaks right toward the breakwater wall.

Here is a break that I haven't ever surfed but did bodysurf and paipoboard it a few times. People die at this beach often because it is like a small bay and the force of the waves gets funneled in and the goes right back out. I would never attempt to go out on a day like this because the undertow is insane on nice small days (not to mention it would be suicide).

[Naeco78]

Wow that just kept coming.. it almost looked like a tropical system making landfall. That's a lot of energy being funneled into a small area. Crazy

[oldmansurfer]

The undertow is amazing. On what might look like a small nice day you can be standing in at the most knee high water with a little whitewater coming in and the force of the water going back out will suck the sand out from underneath your feet and knock you down then drag you out. It's our most dangerous beach.

[oldmansurfer]

Titus , Love his longboard style and he does the music too.

[oldmansurfer]

This is the break where Bethany Hamilton lost her arm. I surfed there once on a very small day but have been diving there numerous times.

[Naeco78]

Surfer Jousting

[oldmansurfer]

big wave bodysurfing

https://vimeo.com/474171330

[BaNZ]

Surfer Jousting

That's hilarious. I did not know a fin can come off that easily.

Both of them seem to have ego issues? Why would you do an air when you could seriously injure the other person.

[oldmansurfer]

Video about the advantages and disadvantages of surfing in the time of Covid