Best of: Novels/Books and Surf Trips

[warkick]

Love the posts about literature.I have moments when I hope to find a bit of stoke in my reading and these are a few of the books that helped me get there:

Barbarian Days - William Finnegan
West of Jesus - Steven Kotler
Chasing Dean; Grey Skies, Green Waves; Riding the Magic Carpet - Tom Anderson
Salt Water Buddha; The Fear Project; All Our Waves Are Water - Jaimal Yogis
Making Mavericks - Frosty Hesson with Ian Spiegelman

The absolute best reference for first aid and health, but also a great general surf concept guide:

Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook - Andrew Nathanson, Clayton Everline, Mark Renneker

And I'd highly recommend anything by Tim Winton. Breath was a fantastic coming of age novel with surfing as a general backdrop, adapted into a movie. I don't think any of his other literature revolves around surfing (but water, yes). Dirt Music is phenomenal!

[oldmansurfer]

I just read Medical Mysteries by Kenneth Wapner. Interesting book and included in the mysteries is surfers paralysis.

[hamahama]

i like the list that you posted....they are really interesting






soran.edu.iq

[TeeBee89]

I just read the Storyteller By Dave Grohl. I was reading it when I heard of Taylor Hawkins death. To me it was a slow starter but a good read Grohl surfed but not sure if he could be called a surfer because surfing only takes up a couple sentences in the entire book. I recently read Thai Stick about surfers who gave up surfing for smuggling drugs which was a good book for me

Thai Stick - the book, but I guess 'legal' now - is incredible!! Really brought the period to life, filled in some suspicions I had about the nature of early trips to Bali for that crew, and the difficulties they faced in publishing the book itself were fascinating from a research perspective. That is, in not getting arrested.

Would highly recommend Paul Wilson's "Bad Karma" as well, a bit similar. Although not exactly on surfing, Neil Hansen's "Flight," about Air America operations in Laos, was also great. Graphic though. Deborah Cassrels' "Gods and Demons" was also a wonderful book on Indonesia. Not the stuff you'd usually expect about Bali, but really insightful on the rest of Indo and the oft overlooked bits. I'm with points made earlier, I generally like something easier to read on long haul travel, be it fiction or non-fiction.
Looking forward to Nigel Barley's "Snow Over Surabaya" next, finally after seeing it in the DPS airport pre-pandemic.

Warkick, that's a SOLID list!!

[oldmansurfer]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=20706#p159163 Here is an earlier discussion of surfing books